Dandy Model Management entrance. Riga, Latvia is full of so many different types of architectural references as you can see from the rooftop of this building, which is Parisian in reference.
During the Soviet Era, all the designers were based out the building that Dandy Model Management is currently headquartered in.
Nils Raumanis, founder of Dandy Model Management. Nils discovered Ginta Lapina and Ieva Laguna among other top models.
THEN: Dmitrijis Kopeikins as a model
NOW: Dmitrijis is now the Director of Dandy Models, while Nils focuses on the scouting end of the business.
Dandy Models is a boutique high fashion modeling agency run in Riga. It's run like a true New York agency, profiting from campaigns and bookings, as opposed to model training schools, a common approach in the Baltics. Dandy is #1 in the Baltics for male model representation.
Ginta Lapina
Dandy's Dog
A motorcycle motif theme runs throughout the offices.
I just got back to New York from a Baltic State tour including Lithuania, Latvia, and Estonia. While in Riga, I had the opportunity to visit with the Dandy Model Management Team, the mother agency to Ginta Lapina and Ieva Laguna.
The one thing that impressed me most about Dandy Model Management beyond the fact that their founder Nils discovered Ginta Lapina and Ieva Laguna, was how their agency plans to integrate the internet with it's agency goals. Click for a LIVE STREAM of their agency office as a case in point or have a visit to their web site HERE.
I'll be shooting more behind the scenes action including tonights Victoria's Secret show, so stay tuned for fresh updates!
With fashion month just around the corner, I thought this interview I did with modeling industry icon Faith Kates would add some balanced insight into the world of modeling.
Faith Kates is a modeling industry legend. She started NEXT Model Management in 1989. Recently, we sat down to talk all things modeling. Needless to say, it was a great learning experience. Enclosed are few snippets from our conversation. And to Faith and the people at NEXT, thank you!
WHY THE SECOND SEASON IN A MODELS CAREER IS MORE IMPORTANT THAN THE FIRST
Faith: Realistically, there's so many girls that have gotten ruined because they come the first season, they're not ready to do those shows and they do them. And the second season they're like, 'but she couldn't walk last season.' You know our job as agents is to prepare these models to get them out there, so that they do their job perfectly. ...we want to get them out there and we want them to know how to walk. I always say if you can get them a couple of good shows so they have some confidence. Think about being young from Latvia...this is the first time you've ever been on airplane and you walk out from behind the stage. You walk out and you're in shoes this high (gestures to a 5" stiletto) and there's a thousand people looking at you with cameras flashing. Think about that very first moment. See that's the story you should start talking to the girls about is, 'What do you fee like?' So it's a lot easier to do that exact thing in a smaller show and then another show and another show and then by the time you get to Prada, you got it.
Craig: So you might not necessarily try and book her for all the big shows?
Faith: Exactly. The first season is important but the second season is more important. Because the first season, lets say you got all the shows. You've got to keep them the second time. It's easy to get the first time. Now you have to do the editorial. Now you have to be out there the whole time. Because your only new once. (pause)
You are only a new girl once.
...you have to really know how to pace it. You have to know what you'll be able to sustain and not sustain.
ON THE IMPORTANCE OF THE EDITORIAL IN A MODELS CAREER
Craig: How important is editorial?
Faith: Very important.
Craig: More important than campaigns?
Faith: It's all about VOGUE. If you are a VOGUE girl you are everywhere. Go into VOGUE magazine. You want to learn something, go in Vogue look at all the girls that are in the well. Go in Anna J, any one of them, Catherine, those are the girls that are doing all the campaigns. Those are girls that are in all the shows.
WHY GOOD RELATIONSHIPS WITH KEY PHOTOGRAPHERS ARE IMPORTANT
Faith: ...I think that in our world...when a girl starts, if you have one of the three or 4 really important photographers behind you, that's the girls that are making it. So if you have Steven Meisel, you have Mario Testino, you have a Craig McDean, you have a David Sims... you have one of those guys behind you, you're in.
Craig: So that's the goal then?
Faith: That's the goal.
Craig: Is that how you view your goal, moreso the photographer?
Faith: It is. You could walk in 1 show. I could get you to walk in Prada, you can walk in Gucci, you can walk in 1 show. But you didn't do good in that show. Or you know. You had the exclusive for the good show. I've seen girls have an exclusive to Prada and you never see them again. They weren't so great in the show. But at least if you are in a picture, it's out there. and it's out there for at least a couple of months and people keep seeing it. It's different. It's on the shelf its always there...with magazines while they're sitting out there, people are able to take them home and they keep looking and looking and looking at them....
Craig: The photographers are the key then?
Faith: The photographers and the magazines have all the power. Designers are important, don't get me wrong. They are very important. But I think it goes first with if you can get to the photographer. There are some girls that are really photographers girls.
ON THE IMPORTANCE OF A MODEL LIKING CLOTHES AND FASHION AS A NECESSITY TO SUCCEED
Craig: Does a girl with a genuine appreciation for fashion and clothing fare better in this industry?
Faith: You don't have to care about clothes...I don't think you have to love clothes. I don't think you have to dislike clothes. I just think you have to know how to wear clothes and know what feels good and right on you.
Craig: But like a girl who can get in touch with the artistic aesthetic of a Yohji Yamamoto because she's interested in style?
Faith: I don't think that matters.
Craig: It doesn't matter?
Faith: Not at all. I don't think it matters at all. I think that girl understands better what, and appreciate more what she's wearing but I don't think that that makes her a better model or makes her any better at what she does because she understands the dress
ON TWO TYPES OF FAME FOR A MODEL
Craig: How important is press as opposed to campaigns, editorials in magazines, and runways to a models career?
Faith: It depends upon the model. So there's a "high fashion model" lets call her that's doing all the campaigns and doing Vogue and doing all the shows. It doesn't matter. Because for her, her bible is the editorial, the Vogues of the world, and doing runway.
Then there's a whole other group of girls that, they are famous because of the press. They probably were not really famous models. But they became famous because they dated somebody that was famous, they were in the right place at the right time, they dated a basketball player, there was something about them that made them famous.
...There's 2 different kinds of famous. There's fashion famous which is what every model, I hate to say it , aspires to. They aspire to being in the well of American Vogue, they aspire to being photographed by Craig McDean, and David Sims, Steven Meisel, photographers Bruce Weber, like that.
And then there are girls that you know that their dream was to be in Sports Illustrated or to be in Victoria's Secret. Its a very different kind of famous and its a different kind of fashion. So its completely different. So there's two types of fame.
ON THE INTERNET AND PRINT
Craig: ...how important is the internet going to be to a models career as opposed to print publications?
Faith: I think we've all been struggling through it for the last 7 or 8 years. I don't see the print magazine or the newspaper or even the written book going away. As hard as I try to read and kindle it was the same as turning the pages. I think the internet becomes important because every day you can change it.
I do believe that the print magazine never goes away. I don't think VOGUE ever goes. I think that they are going to do business a bit differently.
AND FINALLY: THE BIGGEST NAMES NEXT HAS DEVELOPED FROM SCRATCH
Craig: The biggest names you've developed from scratch?
Faith: Milla Jovovich, Molly Sims, Joy Bryant, Diane Kruger (the actress), Angie Everhart, Anja Rubick, Anna Jagodzinka, Catherine McNeil, and Jessica Miller.
With fashion month soon to be upon us, models will be attending casting calls in between fittings, shows, and visits to their agencies. If you haven't seen what a casting call for a runway show is like, it can be quite anxiety driven. Girls are literally lined up by the 10's and 20's outside in hallways. Some Casting Directors have pre-casting castings, in which they will see hundreds of girls in just 2 days time, so they can edit down their choices for runway shows accordingly. Just try mentioning the name Russell Marsh to a model and watch her reaction. Because of the timing, I thought it was appropriate to republish an interview I did with Sarah Doukas, the founder of Storm Model Management and the one who discovered Kate Moss at JFK airport. In it, we talked about the impact of style on a models career.
We sat down for a chat at her agency in South Kensington and what follows is a brief glimpse of the modeling world, distilled ultimately into two major categories: how a models personal style can help create more opportunities for them and how press (think my blog here) can help create more opportunities for models as well.
I must add that everyone at Storm Models from their Press Officer Paula Karaiskos to their entire New Faces Division was a pleasure to work with. Many thanks to everyone at Storm who helped me along the way and especially to Sarah for breaking from her hectic schedule for the interview.
THE IMPACT OF PERSONAL STYLE ON THE SUCCESS OF A MODELS CAREER
Craig: Can a models sense of style positively impact her career?
Sarah: I definitely think it can positively impact her career. It's got to be simple but the point about that question is, that if they have absolutely no style and they go out just not looking great, they're wearing very unflattering clothes and things like that, then it's definitely going to have a negative impact.
Craig: really?
Sarah: Oh god yes, there's no question. I'm obsessed with finding British girls. It's my big thing....and it's hard to get them to the point of going out to do shows...I know that once they hit that international circuit, and they're sitting in a Paris agency and seeing those Parisian clients, if they don't look the part...you know they're wearing some kind of scraggy old t-shirt...(sighs)..they don't have to go and spend a great deal of money, but style is really important, very simple. So I think it is important.
Craig: so the lack of style can definitely negatively impact
Sarah: Impact. There's no doubt that lack of style can negatively impact. I'm not talking about wearing Balenciaga, but very simple High Street stuff. That elongates your legs and is just flattering.
STORM AGENCY TAKES ACTIONS TO IMPROVE A MODELS STYLE
Craig: do you guys tell models how to dress here?
Sarah: yeah
Craig: for castings?
Sarah: yes
Craig: So if you don't mind me asking in what? just jeans...stuff that shows their body?....is that what they're supposed to wear?
Sarah: I think if they walked around in a great big smock it would be a bit a problem for a client and I'm not suggesting that they look provocatively, you know wearing sexy stuff but certainly stuff that shows the length of their body and that they're slim. You can get somebody with the most fantastic figure and they come in here and may be in a dress like this (motions wide with hands) the client would say, "well I wonder what's going on there....have you put on weight?"...They can look at their book but they don't really know...so it's advisable to dress in something that can really see, you know show your shape. That's what I think.
Craig: so the key for style...there's not many options if you're having to wear skinny jeans and t-shirts??
Sarah: well you can wear leggings, they are back in fashion. You can still layer up. You can wear a really nice cardi with a longer tightish dress with leggings. There are lots of options. You can wear a short skirt with leggings. With boots. Again with layers. But just not, you can't walk around in sort of voluminous clothes as the clients are going to say "Hey whats going on under there? Maybe she's pregnant?"
Craig: So you do intervene then? On occasion, when it comes to a girl's style?
Sarah: Well I sit at the booking table. I do all the time. I like everybody to be autonomous in their job here and do their thing. I don't want to look over peoples shoulder. I hate that kind of thing because I work at the booking table with everybody and I don't have an office. You know, I'm just one of them, I'm not the boss or any such thing.
But yeah I do because I know its going to have a negative impact if they go out looking like that. And they appreciate it. You can say it in a really nice way. You don't have to say, "listen you have terrible style. We need to completely change you." You just have to say, "now listen, when you go out I want you to look great."
GREAT PERSONAL STYLE CREATES MORE SALES VALUE FOR BOOKING AGENTS
Sarah: You know they go into a French agency or a New York agency, the bookers are looking at them for the first time and at the end of the day we have to be realistic about this job: they are selling a product, those booking agents. So they have to believe in it when they see it. So they have to see somebody looking -- great. The book can look fantastic. But you know what? You need to believe to sell something, of course you do. You can't make any bones about it. It's a human business. And I really like these girls or I wouldn't do it. But we are selling something. So you must look good.
THE IMPACT OF PRESS ON A MODELS BOOKING VALUE
Craig: regarding press as opposed to runway shows, advertising campaigns and editorials, press like a girl gets her photo taken and she's in the New York Times...or interviews...like this is a form of press (I pointed to 1 of 4 of my Teen Vogue solo pages)
Sarah: does it have their names?
Craig: it does
Sarah: Exactly, that's very important. Years ago nobody knew who models were. Apart from those famous models, they were never given credit in a magazine or anything so there were was no credits given. So that was one thing that people were quite anonymous. And i think press is huge and I think it's really important.
We started with PR in 89 or 90. Because I just thought it was hugely important and Richard Branson was my partner for many years and he was like, "Sarah" we know he likes the press...he was like "it's really important"
I think it's important. Kate Moss is the first one that we did it with. And I build press books and I've done it on all my models. Whether it be Sophie Dahl, Lily Cole, Devon Aoki, Jourdan Dunn, Behati Prinsloo, Liberty Ross....
Craig: one thing that really gets me about press is, yeah it's cool because the model gets her name circulated in the public, but how does that impact the booking value of a model?
Sarah: Huge, because you know you've got a model "Ann Smith" who doesn't get any press, who is a great looking girl, and works alot. And you've got somebody else, say "Paula Reed" who gets press, is out in the public domain, if you went and asked somebody in the street do you know who this is? They'd say yes. Well that's what market research is. So then you get a big company going, "I want a name." So you put this beautiful girl up who hasn't got press and you put this one up who has got press. Who are they going to choose? Does the general public know this person? So they sell masses and her value is much higher than this one's is. Way higher.
ALL THINGS EQUAL, THE MODEL WITH MORE PRESS GETS MORE OPPORTUNITIES
Craig: so everything else being equal, they both walked the same amount of runway shows, they both did the same advertising campaigns and editorials, but one just got the press, that one is going to be the more valuable one then?
Sarah: yes, much more. Look at our magazines. Look at the campaigns. They're all celebrities. Actresses. Somebody well known, they take up what, 80-90% of fabulous campaigns. You know that's because that's the power of somebody whose got a name....
But if you're in the business. If you see your chance that somebody can go that route and if they want to, you've got to take it because it's going to be a huge benefit financially to them and it's going to be a benefit to the agency...it feeds on itself. As soon as you do some press, it's unbelievable. You get so many opportunities open. People are calling. It opens doors.
Craig: so being that press is so important, do you train models in self-publicizing?
Sarah: There are definite pitfalls. Of course you say to them "look, don't open up too much about your private life, or things you don't want to say." You have to learn how to talk to press, but you need to keep it professional but you still need to keep it real. They need to be interested in you as a person. At the end of the day you've got to understand that you can just chat away and end up saying something that you wish you hadn't said. So you do have to be guarded. Open but guarded...Paula would sit in if it was somebody young. Like when Jourdan had done press. She would sit in....
PRESS MUST INCLUDE A MODELS NAME TO BE IMPACTFUL
Craig: Regarding press, it's valuable as long as it includes the models name?
Sarah: Oh it has to. It has to be all about her.
Craig: So just a photo without the name isn't necessarily valuable?
Sarah: nobody would know who you were....if they don't have the name, then the general public just don't know. It's interesting now when people ring and they say they, "Ah, I want somebody well known." Well it's not easy. Not that many models are well known anymore. They're just not -- for the general public. For our world, we know who they are, but the man walking down the street doesn't. They have to constantly see the image of a person and interviews on her, with her name, with her name, constantly for it to get into their head and they suddenly say, "Oh I know who this person is"
WORDS OF WISDOM TO THE COMMERCIAL MODEL
Craig:....commercial versus high fashion...who makes more money in the short-term?
Sarah: the commercial girls make a fortune
Craig: they make tons
Sarah: they make tons!
Craig: why is it then that every girl aspires to the high fashion?
Sarah: because we all want to be driving a Ferrari don't we?
Craig: but you don't necessarily make as much money do you if you go the high fashion route?
Sarah: no, You know you always get these girls that make a load of money. You know they're fantastic looking girls and they're doing brilliantly. And they're like, "you know what, I'm going to cut all my hair off. I'm going to go seriously edgy. I want you to get me into...." And I'm like "You're taking a massive risk. You're going to ruin your market in the short-term" And it happens. It does happen. I can mention lots of girls who it has happened....I always think, "You should be glad for what you've got. I understand wanting to aspire to better and greater things. But, you could in the short term lose your whole market "
Craig: so a girl can start off as a commercial model and then go the high fashion route?
Sarah: it happens
Craig: does it really?
Sarah: yeah
THE MONETARY VALUE OF OPENING AND CLOSING A SHOW
Craig: when a model opens and closes a show, do they get paid extra?
Sarah: well I don't know that they get paid extra per se, but if a model is good enough to open and close, she may well be on a much higher rate than somebody else. I mean it's negotiated. It's all negotiated.
NEW MAGAZINES NEED GREAT PHOTOGRAPHERS WITH A GREAT TEAM TO BOOK TOP MODELS
Craig: I've got another question for you. A new magazine, a start up magazine in London calls you up and they say "we want your top girl" What are the credentials that someone has to bring for a new magazine?
Sarah: They'd have to bring an amazing photographer, stylist, hair and make up...all the jazz.
Craig: What if they don't have a famous photographer?
Sarah: You would have to be very careful with the top talent. Because you don't really know what it's going to look like. You'd ask for a dummy copy. And this that and the other but you wouldn't give top talent.
Who will be the next big face of the SS17 season? Above you will see a google table from the SS 11 New York Fashion Week shows which I designed in an effort to answer that question for the SS17 season. This was a personal project of mine I coordinated with the help of about 6 other people. The objective was to provide an easy drop down menu to track the shows the girls walked and thus recognize the best new faces to watch as well as predict which models were being favored by designers and/or casting directors.
Since history often has a tendency to repeat itself, I thought the information from the SS17 shows might help predict the coming SS17 shows. Not all shows are included though, just the more influential ones.
So for a change of pace on the blog, I thought I'd plug in some quick analysis of the past in order to help foresee the future. What are the most directional shows for a model to walk at New York Fashion Week (and fashion month in general) and what makes those shows valuable for a model? Let's start with Calvin Klein, the legacy of campaigns which helped launch Kate Moss into stardom.
Calvin Klein SS17 basic break down as a predictor of the SS17 show:
21 different models/34 different looks. 2 models walked 3 different looks each 9 models walked 2 different looks each10 models walked 1 different look
Easy Facial Recognition--the girls wear little make historically, so a place in the Calvin Klein lineup will improve the booking chances for the SS17 campaign/editorial season.
2 different shows--There are 2 showings of the Calvin Klein show, so all key editors, stylists, and photographers usually attend. This quantity of attendees improves the chances that the models will be recalled for future bookings.
good model to look ratio/only 21 models for 34 looks--unlike other shows which have 1 model per look. The limited number of models improves the chances their face will be recognized for future bookings.
conclusions: repetition, key attendees, and proven track record make Calvin Klein a key show for models to walk
32% chance a model will walk the runway more than once. A repeat walk is worth more than a single walk because the repetition gives the editors another chance to recall the face. It's like a 2d go see.
two different shows reduces chances that a possible influential attendee does not get to see a key face.
Somebody behind the scenes at Calvin Klein chose Daphne Groeneveld to walk the runway 3 times. Look how well she fared afterward in the editorial/campaign season. Basically, if you see a girl walk Calvin Klein 3 times this SS17 season, the odds are good she will be a big name to follow.
Back to regular scheduled street style shots soon!
Just a few days ago I was standing outside the casting for the Marc Jacobs show and my friend Dree Hemingway (cover Russian Vogue, Gucci campaign, LOVE editorial) walked by with her bleach blonde hair. Yesterday and just one post below, you can see the worlds #1 model Raquel Zimmerman in bleach blonde hair. And in this post today you can see Women Model Management icon Vlada with her bleach blonde hair.
Recently, Patrick Demarchelier shot a spread of like 15 girls for Fashion Night Out in which Raquel had bleach blonde hair so I'm not saying this is the first time any of these girls have worn their hair color as such. It is however interesting to note how pervasive bleach blonde hair is at the current moment among top models.
Stage 5: first look, backstage before hitting the runway
Katrin Wesolowski, production and model line up for Balmain
This Paris Fashion Week, Katrin Wesolowski is busy casting shows and scouting new faces (above with British designer, Henry Holland) while working with La Mode En Images (In House Casting & Production Company for the Balmain show) founded by Olivier Massart. La Mode En Images also works on other various shows during Paris Fashion Week like Givenchy, Balenciaga, Valentino, and YSL to name a few. Katrin was kind enough to grant me backstage access to the Balmain show, which translated itself into a story revolving around model Jac Jagaciak.
I was fortunate enough to be able to catch up with Katrin after the show in between her busy schedule, and get to know her more and what she does as a Casting Agent:
Craig Arend: Thank you so much for taking the time out from your busy schedule of shows to speak with me.Katrin Wesolowski: My pleasure!
Craig: Can you please tell us what you are doing here in Paris for Fashion Week.Katrin: I work as a casting agent for La Mode En Images. It is one of the leading production companies in the fashion business.
Craig: What draws you to this line of work?Katrin: It's such an exciting environment to work in. There are always so many things going on at the same time.
Craig: How did you get your start?
Katrin: Well, I first started as a Stylist Assistant in Milan. I then moved to Paris to assist Julia von Boehm and then worked with Christopher Niquet at MIXTE magazine. In 2006, I left Paris and went home to Stochkolm to work as a Model Agent at Mikas Model Management. I stayed there for 2 years and moved back to Paris to work as a Stylist Producer for Art Partner. I then was called by Patrizia Pilotti of La Mode En Images, who offered me a job to work for her. And I've been working for Patrizia ever since.
Craig: What is a memorable moment that stands out for you in your experience?
Katrin: There are so many, but I'll never forget my first show in Paris. My best friend, Delfina got me in to see Chanel and I was so excited I could cry!
Craig: What are you looking for when you are casting?
Katrin: Castings are so very personal. It truly depends on what each individual client is looking for at that time.
Craig: Where do you see yourself in 5 years?
Katrin: I would love to cast on my own!
Craig: Well, thank you again for finding the time to sit down with me. Good luck with the rest of fashion week!
With the opening of the Metropolitan Museum's exhibition The Model As Muse: Embodying Fashion starting today, the May issue of Vogue U.S.'s pages on Models Street Style, an April model-centric Harper's Bazaar, and a new fashion month Models Off Duty section at Teen Vogue.com, I felt it was appropriate to celebrate the possible re-emergence of the model as a fashion icon by sharing an entire week's worth of models street style.
What makes these photos special is that they will all be from the streets of New York, sans any fashion month flashbacks. Imagine jumping in front of a model on the street, pausing very briefly while you study the face behind the sunglasses and opening with, "Hey, you're Catherine McNeil!"
boots -- Bess dress -- Hervé Léger Bandage Dress in bag -- footwear purchased at Opening Ceremony
Make Up stylist Itsuki's assistant curling the eyelashes on a model
Hair Stylist Ben Skervin adds hair extensions to model Carolyn Murphy
Stylist Leslie Framer custom cut each tank top
Carolyn Murphy with Nigel Barker
You'll see these models walking around with these boots on during New York Fashion Week
It's all about the pedometer measuring how many miles the model walks from castings, to fittings, to shows. For every mile a girl walks $1 will be donated to Fashion Targets Breast Cancer
Back in May I had the opportunity to visit the Highline Studio's on West 15th for a day to shoot the behind the scenes action at the 9West/CFDA Runway Relief Fall campaign drive.
3 shifts of models started to trickle in at 8 am, 8:45, and 9:30. Nigel Barker was the photographer, Itsuki did makeup, Leslie Framer was the wardrobe stylist, and Ben Skervin was responsible for hair.
The point of the day was ultimately to raise funds for the Fashion Targets Breast Cancer foundation. Participating models will wear boots during New York Fashion Week equipped with pedometers and for every mile they walk according to their pedometer in the boots, $1 will go to Fashion Targets Breast Cancer.
In January she styled an editorial for VOGUE Spain with model Coco Rocha and photographer Arthur Elgort and in March, also for VOGUE Spain, she styled a shoot with model Chanel Iman and photographer Thomas Schenk. Don't know if anyone saw these, but the motion in the editorials was very Richard Avedonesque.
Regardless, Barbara always looks good at the Paris shows. :)
New Face to Watch: Erjona Ala (FORD, NY) exits Costume National
A lot of modeling agencies are stuck in the Print Era Paradigm--pre-internet thinking in which the Old School hierarchy of exclusivity dominated the management of models visibility. While this system may still warrant merit, the general lack of adaptability with regards to original content via the internet is appalling. Some agencies are kidding themselves if they think republishing editorial, campaign, or runway shots online will generate a sustainable presence. The editors of today may visit an agency site to get a models stats, but the editors of tomorrow will have grown up learning models names through tumblr, blogspot, and other social media. Modeling Agencies that fail to adapt now to the Internet Era Paradigm and it's vast plethora of opportunity will be still be riding horse and buggy while their competitors speed it out in Maybachs. The internet revolution is here and it's happening in Real Time.
I can't think of single better agency to team up with for the fashion season besides FORD models. Have a click on the previous link to see what I've been up to. They get it. In the same way Henry Ford said he'd belt the earth with his cars before the highways and roads for the cars even existed, FORD models is doing the same online. They dare to venture where other agencies fail to tread. They understand the Bookings Editor's of tomorrow are the teens of today on tumblr and iphones. Agencies which reproduce Print Era thinking online as their sole source of internet presence may as well have a horse tug a Model-T chained to it's back when they could just make their own car to begin with.
Even the fashion industry which for so long tried to protect it's exclusivity has gone on the record about the power of the internet many times. In her Interview Magazine article with Joseph Altuzarra, Anna Dello Russo remarked:
ANNA DELLO RUSSO: You’ve only done four collections and already you’re more popular than Tom Ford. How do you think that happened?
JOSEPH ALTUZARRA: [laughs] I think it’s because of the Internet. You can build a brand very fast now, especially with bloggers and how fast images can get out—the message just goes out faster and stronger than ever before.
And in similar fashion at the IFB Conference in 2011, Jack McCollough of Proenza Schouler remarked, "Blogs posting things about us, going viral, spreading throughout the interent...it has an extraordinary impact on the business"
With the speed at which images travel online now, a models off duty image is half the battle. Her sense of style and fashion can rapidly propel her press image online. Some within the modeling industry "get it" like Casting Director Jennifer Starr who was quoted by New York Magazine recently:
"Model street style has blown up significantly in the past few years, what do you make of it?
There is no doubt in my mind that if you have authentic personal style, it will help you as a model. Look at models like Erin Wasson, Abbey Lee, Freja Beha, and Daria Webowy, all of whom have great style. Personal style indicates to me that you have a great sense of self. The key is having authentic style. You must feel comfortable with the image you're projecting; otherwise, it's obvious you're trying too hard."
And in an interview I conducted with Sarah Doukas, the founder of STORM models who discovered Kate Moss in JFK airport:
"Craig: Can a models sense of style positively impact her career?
Sarah: I definitely think it can positively impact her career. It's got to be simple but the point about that question is, that if they have absolutely no style and they go out just not looking great, they're wearing very unflattering clothes and things like that, then it's definitely going to have a negative impact."
Every home has a computer, but not every home has a copy of American Vogue or Paris Vogue. A new generation is growing up with the internet literally at their fingertips. And I can't think of an agency that I'd be more proud to work with at this moment in time than FORD models. If you haven't checked out the site, go now.
David Cameron just officially became Britain's Prime Minister, replacing Gordon Brown. Often referred to as "Sam Cam" his wife Samantha Cameron is seen here wearing Erdem on her way to the Erdem show at the Fall/Winter 2010 shows at London Fashion Week.
You can't see it here, but Samantha is due for a new baby this September. What about this makes her a role model you may ask? Because just last year, she lost her oldest son to cerebral palsy and epilepsy. The fact that she is 'fighting on' despite such a recent loss suggests to me that this is a woman filled with indomitable faith and hope.
May she be not only a fashion role model for this new era in England, but also a constant source of inner inspiration for women around the world as well.
Liu Wen (Marilyn NY) with a bow tied belt. The first asian model to sign with Estée Lauder. The first asian model to walk the Victoria's Secret runway. Needless to say, the first photo in this post.
Hind Sahli (DNA NY) also with a bow tied belt. If you ask me, she rocks this hair cut. Look for her editorial in the May issue of VOGUE Italia by shot by Steven Meisel.
Laura Kampan (New York Model Management). How often is it one crosses paths with the face of Balenciaga and the solo cover model to the Feb. issue of Italian Vogue? And couple that with the beautiful cobblestone streets of Soho? Well, with due regard that happened with Laura outside of Starbucks on Crosby Street. And if you want to see a delightfully airborne image (that’s Jump Shot) of Laura, have a visit to my Instagram account @WhatShaunaThinks. Click HERE to see her work as officially recognized by New York Models.
With the new fashion season about to hit, you know you can count on some serious Models Off Duty coverage from all 4 major fashion weeks to come. From Lincoln Center in New York, to Somerset House in London, to the Duomo in Milano and finally the Tuileries in Paris. I'll be there.
Often these girls are in a serious hurry between shows, fittings, and castings. A model can have as many as 17 appointments in one day during the middle of fashion week. Fashion season for a model is kind of like a hurricane of professional obligations to tend to: designers, casting agents, PR people, hair and make up, mother agents, drivers to find, taxi's to hail. A model is not contractually required to stop for me for a picture and by no means, required to stop and let me take detail shots, full body shots, and carefully execute a photo shoot. Let alone when she's fatigued, jet lagged, or hating the make up they just applied to her skin. To those girls that do stop for me, I am grateful for their time and patience.
Because of this, I've decided to add in the off season, some work of mine that better represents the current state of my creative photography. Sometimes that will include models from agencies like Marilyn (look out for a coming series) and Women, and other times, that will include photos from DBA girls, like Lindsey above.
ballet flats -- Lanvin jeans -- Cheap Monday blazer -- The Row by Mary Kate and Ashley bag -- Miu Miu
Audra Callo represented by New York Model Management as discovered on Mercer Street today. On her blog I learned that her name Audra means "storm" in Lithuanian which is relevant since she came from a Lithuanian family.
Check out the Alexander Wang dress she wore on her birthday over at Model Feed.com
p.s. if you haven't visited the site in a while, have a click over to style.com and check out my High Line Street Style slideshow.
You're only new once to the runway's and last season Frida Gustavsson was already showing signs of being a media favorite (I don't mean runway, or editorial, or campaign) by sheer virtue of her great sense of style. She was always willing to give a picture, which if you ask me, is critical to helping a model become a household name -- which in turn increases her booking value and helps her make more money.
Stay tuned for tomorrows post in which I'll reveal my choice for which model at the Fall/Winter 2010 shows also displayed positive signs of being a media favorite.
Kate King (Canada/FORD, NY) walked Wang in her first season ever FW11
New York Fashion Week is here and from within the modeling industry, everyone's eyes are wide open to spot the next big face of the season. BCBG Max Azria on Day 2 will often set a precedent, followed by Alexander Wang on Day 3. The big question about Wang's show is, "Who will open Alexander Wang?" Wang has recently set a precedent with discovering The New Face of the season. I wish I could say it was me (ha) as he (Alexander Wang) often remembers me when I wear my Marc Jacob's silk georgette twill top with built in bow tie (shot his party at Paris Fashion Week wearing that and then a year later he recalled it), but alas reality sets in.
Wang wasn't always the hit wonder for models though. Up until he got the CFDA Top 10 nomination, he was casting more unknown girls. Taking a quick look at the history of who opened Alexander Wang therafter, this is what we get:
Is it any wonder with A-listers like Freja and Raquel opening in the past, that when a new face gets the first impression look in a show chalked full of A-list models and alpha editors now, the new face gains noteworthy public recognition in the modeling industry? Or when a new face walks the show at all for that matter...
Hang with me here for just a couple of more minutes. If you take a look at the other models who get cast for Wang, you will see a lineup full of A-listers. Out of curiosity, I wanted to see who The Real Queen of the Alexander Wang runway was. Which model has walked Alexander Wang MORE than any other model? So I went back in the archives at both style.com and vogue.com till they didn't have any older shows than SS17 and made a mini Runway IQ tracker which you can play with below.
What's the point of all this? Well as the saying goes, you are judged by the company you keep and if you are keeping company in Alexander Wang's line up, a designer celebrated by the CFDA and getting press left and right for his companies sales, you are in good company.
