Fashion Models [Search results for runway model] 

With fashion month soon to be upon us, models will be attending casting calls in between fittings, shows, and visits to their agencies. If you haven't seen what a casting call for a runway show is like, it can be quite anxiety driven. Girls are literally lined up by the 10's and 20's outside in hallways. Some Casting Directors have pre-casting castings, in which they will see hundreds of girls in just 2 days time, so they can edit down their choices for runway shows accordingly. Just try mentioning the name Russell Marsh to a model and watch her reaction. Because of the timing, I thought it was appropriate to republish an interview I did with Sarah Doukas, the founder of Storm Model Management and the one who discovered Kate Moss at JFK airport. In it, we talked about the impact of style on a models career.

We sat down for a chat at her agency in South Kensington and what follows is a brief glimpse of the modeling world, distilled ultimately into two major categories: how a models personal style can help create more opportunities for them and how press (think my blog here) can help create more opportunities for models as well.

I must add that everyone at Storm Models from their Press Officer Paula Karaiskos to their entire New Faces Division was a pleasure to work with. Many thanks to everyone at Storm who helped me along the way and especially to Sarah for breaking from her hectic schedule for the interview.

THE IMPACT OF PERSONAL STYLE ON THE SUCCESS OF A MODELS CAREER

Craig: Can a models sense of style positively impact her career?

Sarah: I definitely think it can positively impact her career. It's got to be simple but the point about that question is, that if they have absolutely no style and they go out just not looking great, they're wearing very unflattering clothes and things like that, then it's definitely going to have a negative impact.

Craig: really?

Sarah: Oh god yes, there's no question. I'm obsessed with finding British girls. It's my big thing....and it's hard to get them to the point of going out to do shows...I know that once they hit that international circuit, and they're sitting in a Paris agency and seeing those Parisian clients, if they don't look the part...you know they're wearing some kind of scraggy old t-shirt...(sighs)..they don't have to go and spend a great deal of money, but style is really important, very simple. So I think it is important.

Craig: so the lack of style can definitely negatively impact

Sarah: Impact. There's no doubt that lack of style can negatively impact. I'm not talking about wearing Balenciaga, but very simple High Street stuff. That elongates your legs and is just flattering.

STORM AGENCY TAKES ACTIONS TO IMPROVE A MODELS STYLE

Craig: do you guys tell models how to dress here?

Sarah: yeah

Craig: for castings?

Sarah: yes

Craig: So if you don't mind me asking in what? just jeans...stuff that shows their body?....is that what they're supposed to wear?

Sarah: I think if they walked around in a great big smock it would be a bit a problem for a client and I'm not suggesting that they look provocatively, you know wearing sexy stuff but certainly stuff that shows the length of their body and that they're slim. You can get somebody with the most fantastic figure and they come in here and may be in a dress like this (motions wide with hands) the client would say, "well I wonder what's going on there....have you put on weight?"...They can look at their book but they don't really know...so it's advisable to dress in something that can really see, you know show your shape. That's what I think.

Craig: so the key for style...there's not many options if you're having to wear skinny jeans and t-shirts??

Sarah: well you can wear leggings, they are back in fashion. You can still layer up. You can wear a really nice cardi with a longer tightish dress with leggings. There are lots of options. You can wear a short skirt with leggings. With boots. Again with layers. But just not, you can't walk around in sort of voluminous clothes as the clients are going to say "Hey whats going on under there? Maybe she's pregnant?"

Craig: So you do intervene then? On occasion, when it comes to a girl's style?

Sarah: Well I sit at the booking table. I do all the time. I like everybody to be autonomous in their job here and do their thing. I don't want to look over peoples shoulder. I hate that kind of thing because I work at the booking table with everybody and I don't have an office. You know, I'm just one of them, I'm not the boss or any such thing.

But yeah I do because I know its going to have a negative impact if they go out looking like that. And they appreciate it. You can say it in a really nice way. You don't have to say, "listen you have terrible style. We need to completely change you." You just have to say, "now listen, when you go out I want you to look great."

GREAT PERSONAL STYLE CREATES MORE SALES VALUE FOR BOOKING AGENTS

Sarah: You know they go into a French agency or a New York agency, the bookers are looking at them for the first time and at the end of the day we have to be realistic about this job: they are selling a product, those booking agents. So they have to believe in it when they see it. So they have to see somebody looking -- great. The book can look fantastic. But you know what? You need to believe to sell something, of course you do. You can't make any bones about it. It's a human business. And I really like these girls or I wouldn't do it. But we are selling something. So you must look good.

THE IMPACT OF PRESS ON A MODELS BOOKING VALUE

Craig: regarding press as opposed to runway shows, advertising campaigns and editorials, press like a girl gets her photo taken and she's in the New York Times...or interviews...like this is a form of press (I pointed to 1 of 4 of my Teen Vogue solo pages)

Sarah: does it have their names?

Craig: it does

Sarah: Exactly, that's very important. Years ago nobody knew who models were. Apart from those famous models, they were never given credit in a magazine or anything so there were was no credits given. So that was one thing that people were quite anonymous. And i think press is huge and I think it's really important.

We started with PR in 89 or 90. Because I just thought it was hugely important and Richard Branson was my partner for many years and he was like, "Sarah" we know he likes the press...he was like "it's really important"

I think it's important. Kate Moss is the first one that we did it with. And I build press books and I've done it on all my models. Whether it be Sophie Dahl, Lily Cole, Devon Aoki, Jourdan Dunn, Behati Prinsloo, Liberty Ross....

Craig: one thing that really gets me about press is, yeah it's cool because the model gets her name circulated in the public, but how does that impact the booking value of a model?

Sarah: Huge, because you know you've got a model "Ann Smith" who doesn't get any press, who is a great looking girl, and works alot. And you've got somebody else, say "Paula Reed" who gets press, is out in the public domain, if you went and asked somebody in the street do you know who this is? They'd say yes. Well that's what market research is. So then you get a big company going, "I want a name." So you put this beautiful girl up who hasn't got press and you put this one up who has got press. Who are they going to choose? Does the general public know this person? So they sell masses and her value is much higher than this one's is. Way higher.

ALL THINGS EQUAL, THE MODEL WITH MORE PRESS GETS MORE OPPORTUNITIES

Craig: so everything else being equal, they both walked the same amount of runway shows, they both did the same advertising campaigns and editorials, but one just got the press, that one is going to be the more valuable one then?

Sarah: yes, much more. Look at our magazines. Look at the campaigns. They're all celebrities. Actresses. Somebody well known, they take up what, 80-90% of fabulous campaigns. You know that's because that's the power of somebody whose got a name....

But if you're in the business. If you see your chance that somebody can go that route and if they want to, you've got to take it because it's going to be a huge benefit financially to them and it's going to be a benefit to the agency...it feeds on itself. As soon as you do some press, it's unbelievable. You get so many opportunities open. People are calling. It opens doors.

Craig: so being that press is so important, do you train models in self-publicizing?

Sarah: There are definite pitfalls. Of course you say to them "look, don't open up too much about your private life, or things you don't want to say." You have to learn how to talk to press, but you need to keep it professional but you still need to keep it real. They need to be interested in you as a person. At the end of the day you've got to understand that you can just chat away and end up saying something that you wish you hadn't said. So you do have to be guarded. Open but guarded...Paula would sit in if it was somebody young. Like when Jourdan had done press. She would sit in....

PRESS MUST INCLUDE A MODELS NAME TO BE IMPACTFUL

Craig: Regarding press, it's valuable as long as it includes the models name?

Sarah: Oh it has to. It has to be all about her.

Craig: So just a photo without the name isn't necessarily valuable?

Sarah: nobody would know who you were....if they don't have the name, then the general public just don't know. It's interesting now when people ring and they say they, "Ah, I want somebody well known." Well it's not easy. Not that many models are well known anymore. They're just not -- for the general public. For our world, we know who they are, but the man walking down the street doesn't. They have to constantly see the image of a person and interviews on her, with her name, with her name, constantly for it to get into their head and they suddenly say, "Oh I know who this person is"

WORDS OF WISDOM TO THE COMMERCIAL MODEL

Craig:....commercial versus high fashion...who makes more money in the short-term?

Sarah: the commercial girls make a fortune

Craig: they make tons

Sarah: they make tons!

Craig: why is it then that every girl aspires to the high fashion?

Sarah: because we all want to be driving a Ferrari don't we?

Craig: but you don't necessarily make as much money do you if you go the high fashion route?

Sarah: no, You know you always get these girls that make a load of money. You know they're fantastic looking girls and they're doing brilliantly. And they're like, "you know what, I'm going to cut all my hair off. I'm going to go seriously edgy. I want you to get me into...." And I'm like "You're taking a massive risk. You're going to ruin your market in the short-term" And it happens. It does happen. I can mention lots of girls who it has happened....I always think, "You should be glad for what you've got. I understand wanting to aspire to better and greater things. But, you could in the short term lose your whole market "

Craig: so a girl can start off as a commercial model and then go the high fashion route?

Sarah: it happens

Craig: does it really?

Sarah: yeah

THE MONETARY VALUE OF OPENING AND CLOSING A SHOW

Craig: when a model opens and closes a show, do they get paid extra?

Sarah: well I don't know that they get paid extra per se, but if a model is good enough to open and close, she may well be on a much higher rate than somebody else. I mean it's negotiated. It's all negotiated.

NEW MAGAZINES NEED GREAT PHOTOGRAPHERS WITH A GREAT TEAM TO BOOK TOP MODELS

Craig: I've got another question for you. A new magazine, a start up magazine in London calls you up and they say "we want your top girl" What are the credentials that someone has to bring for a new magazine?

Sarah: They'd have to bring an amazing photographer, stylist, hair and make up...all the jazz.

Craig: What if they don't have a famous photographer?

Sarah: You would have to be very careful with the top talent. Because you don't really know what it's going to look like. You'd ask for a dummy copy. And this that and the other but you wouldn't give top talent.

With fashion month just around the corner, I thought this interview I did with modeling industry icon Faith Kates would add some balanced insight into the world of modeling.

Faith Kates is a modeling industry legend. She started NEXT Model Management in 1989. Recently, we sat down to talk all things modeling. Needless to say, it was a great learning experience. Enclosed are few snippets from our conversation. And to Faith and the people at NEXT, thank you!

WHY THE SECOND SEASON IN A MODELS CAREER IS MORE IMPORTANT THAN THE FIRST

Faith: Realistically, there's so many girls that have gotten ruined because they come the first season, they're not ready to do those shows and they do them. And the second season they're like, 'but she couldn't walk last season.' You know our job as agents is to prepare these models to get them out there, so that they do their job perfectly. ...we want to get them out there and we want them to know how to walk. I always say if you can get them a couple of good shows so they have some confidence. Think about being young from Latvia...this is the first time you've ever been on airplane and you walk out from behind the stage. You walk out and you're in shoes this high (gestures to a 5" stiletto) and there's a thousand people looking at you with cameras flashing. Think about that very first moment. See that's the story you should start talking to the girls about is, 'What do you fee like?' So it's a lot easier to do that exact thing in a smaller show and then another show and another show and then by the time you get to Prada, you got it.

Craig: So you might not necessarily try and book her for all the big shows?

Faith: Exactly. The first season is important but the second season is more important. Because the first season, lets say you got all the shows. You've got to keep them the second time. It's easy to get the first time. Now you have to do the editorial. Now you have to be out there the whole time. Because your only new once. (pause)

You are only a new girl once.

...you have to really know how to pace it. You have to know what you'll be able to sustain and not sustain.

ON THE IMPORTANCE OF THE EDITORIAL IN A MODELS CAREER

Craig: How important is editorial?

Faith: Very important.

Craig: More important than campaigns?

Faith: It's all about VOGUE. If you are a VOGUE girl you are everywhere. Go into VOGUE magazine. You want to learn something, go in Vogue look at all the girls that are in the well. Go in Anna J, any one of them, Catherine, those are the girls that are doing all the campaigns. Those are girls that are in all the shows.

WHY GOOD RELATIONSHIPS WITH KEY PHOTOGRAPHERS ARE IMPORTANT

Faith: ...I think that in our world...when a girl starts, if you have one of the three or 4 really important photographers behind you, that's the girls that are making it. So if you have Steven Meisel, you have Mario Testino, you have a Craig McDean, you have a David Sims... you have one of those guys behind you, you're in.

Craig: So that's the goal then?

Faith: That's the goal.

Craig: Is that how you view your goal, moreso the photographer?

Faith: It is. You could walk in 1 show. I could get you to walk in Prada, you can walk in Gucci, you can walk in 1 show. But you didn't do good in that show. Or you know. You had the exclusive for the good show. I've seen girls have an exclusive to Prada and you never see them again. They weren't so great in the show. But at least if you are in a picture, it's out there. and it's out there for at least a couple of months and people keep seeing it. It's different. It's on the shelf its always there...with magazines while they're sitting out there, people are able to take them home and they keep looking and looking and looking at them....

Craig: The photographers are the key then?

Faith: The photographers and the magazines have all the power. Designers are important, don't get me wrong. They are very important. But I think it goes first with if you can get to the photographer. There are some girls that are really photographers girls.

ON THE IMPORTANCE OF A MODEL LIKING CLOTHES AND FASHION AS A NECESSITY TO SUCCEED

Craig: Does a girl with a genuine appreciation for fashion and clothing fare better in this industry?

Faith: You don't have to care about clothes...I don't think you have to love clothes. I don't think you have to dislike clothes. I just think you have to know how to wear clothes and know what feels good and right on you.

Craig: But like a girl who can get in touch with the artistic aesthetic of a Yohji Yamamoto because she's interested in style?

Faith: I don't think that matters.

Craig: It doesn't matter?

Faith: Not at all. I don't think it matters at all. I think that girl understands better what, and appreciate more what she's wearing but I don't think that that makes her a better model or makes her any better at what she does because she understands the dress

ON TWO TYPES OF FAME FOR A MODEL

Craig: How important is press as opposed to campaigns, editorials in magazines, and runways to a models career?

Faith: It depends upon the model. So there's a "high fashion model" lets call her that's doing all the campaigns and doing Vogue and doing all the shows. It doesn't matter. Because for her, her bible is the editorial, the Vogues of the world, and doing runway.

Then there's a whole other group of girls that, they are famous because of the press. They probably were not really famous models. But they became famous because they dated somebody that was famous, they were in the right place at the right time, they dated a basketball player, there was something about them that made them famous.

...There's 2 different kinds of famous. There's fashion famous which is what every model, I hate to say it , aspires to. They aspire to being in the well of American Vogue, they aspire to being photographed by Craig McDean, and David Sims, Steven Meisel, photographers Bruce Weber, like that.

And then there are girls that you know that their dream was to be in Sports Illustrated or to be in Victoria's Secret. Its a very different kind of famous and its a different kind of fashion. So its completely different. So there's two types of fame.

ON THE INTERNET AND PRINT

Craig: ...how important is the internet going to be to a models career as opposed to print publications?

Faith: I think we've all been struggling through it for the last 7 or 8 years. I don't see the print magazine or the newspaper or even the written book going away. As hard as I try to read and kindle it was the same as turning the pages. I think the internet becomes important because every day you can change it.

I do believe that the print magazine never goes away. I don't think VOGUE ever goes. I think that they are going to do business a bit differently.

AND FINALLY: THE BIGGEST NAMES NEXT HAS DEVELOPED FROM SCRATCH

Craig: The biggest names you've developed from scratch?

Faith: Milla Jovovich, Molly Sims, Joy Bryant, Diane Kruger (the actress), Angie Everhart, Anja Rubick, Anna Jagodzinka, Catherine McNeil, and Jessica Miller.

Who will be the next big face of the SS17 season? Above you will see a google table from the SS 11 New York Fashion Week shows which I designed in an effort to answer that question for the SS17 season. This was a personal project of mine I coordinated with the help of about 6 other people. The objective was to provide an easy drop down menu to track the shows the girls walked and thus recognize the best new faces to watch as well as predict which models were being favored by designers and/or casting directors.

Since history often has a tendency to repeat itself, I thought the information from the SS17 shows might help predict the coming SS17 shows. Not all shows are included though, just the more influential ones.

So for a change of pace on the blog, I thought I'd plug in some quick analysis of the past in order to help foresee the future. What are the most directional shows for a model to walk at New York Fashion Week (and fashion month in general) and what makes those shows valuable for a model? Let's start with Calvin Klein, the legacy of campaigns which helped launch Kate Moss into stardom.

Calvin Klein SS17 basic break down as a predictor of the SS17 show:

21 different models/34 different looks.
2 models walked 3 different looks each
9 models walked 2 different looks each10 models walked 1 different look

Easy Facial Recognition--the girls wear little make historically, so a place in the Calvin Klein lineup will improve the booking chances for the SS17 campaign/editorial season.

2 different shows--There are 2 showings of the Calvin Klein show, so all key editors, stylists, and photographers usually attend. This quantity of attendees improves the chances that the models will be recalled for future bookings.

good model to look ratio/only 21 models for 34 looks--unlike other shows which have 1 model per look. The limited number of models improves the chances their face will be recognized for future bookings.

conclusions: repetition, key attendees, and proven track record make Calvin Klein a key show for models to walk

32% chance a model will walk the runway more than once. A repeat walk is worth more than a single walk because the repetition gives the editors another chance to recall the face. It's like a 2d go see.

two different shows reduces chances that a possible influential attendee does not get to see a key face.

Somebody behind the scenes at Calvin Klein chose Daphne Groeneveld to walk the runway 3 times. Look how well she fared afterward in the editorial/campaign season. Basically, if you see a girl walk Calvin Klein 3 times this SS17 season, the odds are good she will be a big name to follow.

Back to regular scheduled street style shots soon!

So I did a bit of research on the Alexander Wang runway:

--11 seasons total available online
--906 total looks
--back to the SS17 shows, September 2007

And with this data, I was able to count which models have walked the Alexander Wang runway the most frequently. With the above data, you can click on any model's name and instantly see which seasons and which slots in the Alexander Wang show she walked. It's an easy way to see how popular she is with the Alexander Wang casting team.

1. Hanne Gaby Odiele (11)
2. Kasia Struss (9)
3. Karmen Pedaru (8)
4. Magdalena Frackowiak (8)
5. Liu Wen (8)
6. Jac (7)
7. Abbey Lee Kershaw (7)
8. Freja (7)

Do you see a correlation between the Model Off Duty street style of these girls and how often they appear on the Alexander Wang runway?

Dree Hemingway, December 14, 2008...before she became a media celebrity.

Joan Smalls, back on June 3, 2009 before she became a Vogue It Girl.

Frida Gustavsson, at London Fashion Week back on September 23, 2009, in her first runway season, before she became a street style phenomena.

Tati Cotliar before she even finished her first runway season back at New York Fashion Week on September 25, 2009

Mirte Maas just after finishing her first ever runway season on November 19, 2009. Before she went on to multiple shoots with Steven Meisel, the Balenciaga campaign, and a Vogue China Cover.

Ruby Aldridge, on March 3, 2010. Before she went on to be shot by Juergen Teller for the Marc by Marc Jacobs campaign as well as by nearly every other street style blogger around.

Lindsey Wixson on February 10, 2010, just after debuting with a Miu Miu exclusive.

Ming Xi, during her first ever Paris Ready To Wear show on March 6, 2010, in a Paris Metro Stop. This is before her Givenchy campaign went mainstream.

Samantha Gradoville, on July 14, 2010. She hasn't even finished a complete runway season yet. Last season she Opened and Closed PRADA, one of the most influential shows any model can walk in, let alone a new model who Opens and Closes the show. Here she is at the recent Paris Couture shows.

The Independent, a British based newspaper recently mentioned this about altamira, "Dubbed 'Models off duty,' this blog captures the streetstyle of all kinds of fashion professionals including the industry's best-known models, often predicting soon-to-be-famous new faces."

Not only has this site been recognized as the single most powerful concentrated resource for models street style on the internet, but over time, that reach and influence will just grow more and more.

So stay tuned for updates during the coming fashion season.

Stage 1: before Balmain, on the street

Stage 2: getting hair done, backstage

Stage 3: make up complete

Stage 4: getting dressed, downstairs

Stage 5: first look, backstage before hitting the runway

Katrin Wesolowski, production and model line up for Balmain

This Paris Fashion Week, Katrin Wesolowski is busy casting shows and scouting new faces (above with British designer, Henry Holland) while working with La Mode En Images (In House Casting & Production Company for the Balmain show) founded by Olivier Massart. La Mode En Images also works on other various shows during Paris Fashion Week like Givenchy, Balenciaga, Valentino, and YSL to name a few. Katrin was kind enough to grant me backstage access to the Balmain show, which translated itself into a story revolving around model Jac Jagaciak.

I was fortunate enough to be able to catch up with Katrin after the show in between her busy schedule, and get to know her more and what she does as a Casting Agent:

Craig Arend: Thank you so much for taking the time out from your busy schedule of shows to speak with me.Katrin Wesolowski: My pleasure!

Craig: Can you please tell us what you are doing here in Paris for Fashion Week.Katrin: I work as a casting agent for La Mode En Images. It is one of the leading production companies in the fashion business.

Craig: What draws you to this line of work?Katrin: It's such an exciting environment to work in. There are always so many things going on at the same time.

Craig: How did you get your start?

Katrin: Well, I first started as a Stylist Assistant in Milan. I then moved to Paris to assist Julia von Boehm and then worked with Christopher Niquet at MIXTE magazine. In 2006, I left Paris and went home to Stochkolm to work as a Model Agent at Mikas Model Management. I stayed there for 2 years and moved back to Paris to work as a Stylist Producer for Art Partner. I then was called by Patrizia Pilotti of La Mode En Images, who offered me a job to work for her. And I've been working for Patrizia ever since.

Craig: What is a memorable moment that stands out for you in your experience?

Katrin: There are so many, but I'll never forget my first show in Paris. My best friend, Delfina got me in to see Chanel and I was so excited I could cry!

Craig: What are you looking for when you are casting?

Katrin: Castings are so very personal. It truly depends on what each individual client is looking for at that time.

Craig: Where do you see yourself in 5 years?

Katrin: I would love to cast on my own!

Craig: Well, thank you again for finding the time to sit down with me. Good luck with the rest of fashion week!

Katrin: See you at the next show Craig!

Of 11 new faces at the last Victoria's Secret Runway Show, one of them was Frida Gustavsson. I couldn't be happier for someone of Frida's calibre to arrive at one of the modeling industry's most coveted runways--with her total sense of down-to-earthness still intact. #classact

You're only new once to the runway's and last season Frida Gustavsson was already showing signs of being a media favorite (I don't mean runway, or editorial, or campaign) by sheer virtue of her great sense of style. She was always willing to give a picture, which if you ask me, is critical to helping a model become a household name -- which in turn increases her booking value and helps her make more money.

Stay tuned for tomorrows post in which I'll reveal my choice for which model at the Fall/Winter 2010 shows also displayed positive signs of being a media favorite.

Kate King (Canada/FORD, NY) walked Wang in her first season ever FW11

New York Fashion Week is here and from within the modeling industry, everyone's eyes are wide open to spot the next big face of the season. BCBG Max Azria on Day 2 will often set a precedent, followed by Alexander Wang on Day 3. The big question about Wang's show is, "Who will open Alexander Wang?" Wang has recently set a precedent with discovering The New Face of the season. I wish I could say it was me (ha) as he (Alexander Wang) often remembers me when I wear my Marc Jacob's silk georgette twill top with built in bow tie (shot his party at Paris Fashion Week wearing that and then a year later he recalled it), but alas reality sets in.

Wang wasn't always the hit wonder for models though. Up until he got the CFDA Top 10 nomination, he was casting more unknown girls. Taking a quick look at the history of who opened Alexander Wang therafter, this is what we get:

SS08 Noot Sear
FW08 Freja Beha Erichsen
SS09 Raquel Zimmerman
FW09 Natasha Poly
SS10 Mirte Maas
FW10 Natalia Vodianova
SS11 Britt Maren
FW11 Aymeline Valade

Is it any wonder with A-listers like Freja and Raquel opening in the past, that when a new face gets the first impression look in a show chalked full of A-list models and alpha editors now, the new face gains noteworthy public recognition in the modeling industry? Or when a new face walks the show at all for that matter...

Hang with me here for just a couple of more minutes. If you take a look at the other models who get cast for Wang, you will see a lineup full of A-listers. Out of curiosity, I wanted to see who The Real Queen of the Alexander Wang runway was. Which model has walked Alexander Wang MORE than any other model? So I went back in the archives at both style.com and vogue.com till they didn't have any older shows than SS17 and made a mini Runway IQ tracker which you can play with below.

Without further ado, the winners are:

1. Hanne Gaby Odiele (Ford) 8 looks
2. Freja Beha Erichsen (IMG) 7 looks
Kasia Struss (Women) 7 looks

3. Abbey Lee Kershaw (Next)6 looks
Alla Kostromichova (Women) 6 looks
Lily Donaldson (IMG) 6 looks
Magdalena Frackowiak (DNA) 6 looks

What's the point of all this? Well as the saying goes, you are judged by the company you keep and if you are keeping company in Alexander Wang's line up, a designer celebrated by the CFDA and getting press left and right for his companies sales, you are in good company.

Nigel Barker in action

Make Up stylist Itsuki's assistant curling the eyelashes on a model

Hair Stylist Ben Skervin adds hair extensions to model Carolyn Murphy

Stylist Leslie Framer custom cut each tank top

Carolyn Murphy with Nigel Barker

You'll see these models walking around with these boots on during New York Fashion Week

It's all about the pedometer measuring how many miles the model walks from castings, to fittings, to shows. For every mile a girl walks $1 will be donated to Fashion Targets Breast Cancer

Back in May I had the opportunity to visit the Highline Studio's on West 15th for a day to shoot the behind the scenes action at the 9West/CFDA Runway Relief Fall campaign drive.

3 shifts of models started to trickle in at 8 am, 8:45, and 9:30. Nigel Barker was the photographer, Itsuki did makeup, Leslie Framer was the wardrobe stylist, and Ben Skervin was responsible for hair.

The point of the day was ultimately to raise funds for the Fashion Targets Breast Cancer foundation. Participating models will wear boots during New York Fashion Week equipped with pedometers and for every mile they walk according to their pedometer in the boots, $1 will go to Fashion Targets Breast Cancer.

To learn more visit NineWest.com/runwayrelief.

New Face to Watch: Erjona Ala (FORD, NY) exits Costume National

A lot of modeling agencies are stuck in the Print Era Paradigm--pre-internet thinking in which the Old School hierarchy of exclusivity dominated the management of models visibility. While this system may still warrant merit, the general lack of adaptability with regards to original content via the internet is appalling. Some agencies are kidding themselves if they think republishing editorial, campaign, or runway shots online will generate a sustainable presence. The editors of today may visit an agency site to get a models stats, but the editors of tomorrow will have grown up learning models names through tumblr, blogspot, and other social media. Modeling Agencies that fail to adapt now to the Internet Era Paradigm and it's vast plethora of opportunity will be still be riding horse and buggy while their competitors speed it out in Maybachs. The internet revolution is here and it's happening in Real Time.

I can't think of single better agency to team up with for the fashion season besides FORD models. Have a click on the previous link to see what I've been up to. They get it. In the same way Henry Ford said he'd belt the earth with his cars before the highways and roads for the cars even existed, FORD models is doing the same online. They dare to venture where other agencies fail to tread. They understand the Bookings Editor's of tomorrow are the teens of today on tumblr and iphones. Agencies which reproduce Print Era thinking online as their sole source of internet presence may as well have a horse tug a Model-T chained to it's back when they could just make their own car to begin with.

Even the fashion industry which for so long tried to protect it's exclusivity has gone on the record about the power of the internet many times. In her Interview Magazine article with Joseph Altuzarra, Anna Dello Russo remarked:

ANNA DELLO RUSSO: You’ve only done four collections and already you’re more popular than Tom Ford. How do you think that happened?

JOSEPH ALTUZARRA: [laughs] I think it’s because of the Internet. You can build a brand very fast now, especially with bloggers and how fast images can get out—the message just goes out faster and stronger than ever before.

And in similar fashion at the IFB Conference in 2011, Jack McCollough of Proenza Schouler remarked, "Blogs posting things about us, going viral, spreading throughout the interent...it has an extraordinary impact on the business"

With the speed at which images travel online now, a models off duty image is half the battle. Her sense of style and fashion can rapidly propel her press image online. Some within the modeling industry "get it" like Casting Director Jennifer Starr who was quoted by New York Magazine recently:

"Model street style has blown up significantly in the past few years, what do you make of it?

There is no doubt in my mind that if you have authentic personal style, it will help you as a model. Look at models like Erin Wasson, Abbey Lee, Freja Beha, and Daria Webowy, all of whom have great style. Personal style indicates to me that you have a great sense of self. The key is having authentic style. You must feel comfortable with the image you're projecting; otherwise, it's obvious you're trying too hard."

"Craig: Can a models sense of style positively impact her career?

Sarah: I definitely think it can positively impact her career. It's got to be simple but the point about that question is, that if they have absolutely no style and they go out just not looking great, they're wearing very unflattering clothes and things like that, then it's definitely going to have a negative impact."

Liu Wen (Marilyn NY) with a bow tied belt. The first asian model to sign with Estée Lauder. The first asian model to walk the Victoria's Secret runway. Needless to say, the first photo in this post.

Hind Sahli (DNA NY) also with a bow tied belt. If you ask me, she rocks this hair cut. Look for her editorial in the May issue of VOGUE Italia by shot by Steven Meisel.

Hanne Gaby Odiele exits the SS17 Alexander Wang show

Question: Which model has walked the Alexander Wang runway more than any other model?

Answer: Hanne Gaby Odiele

9 looks, 8 consecutive seasons. (verify with the gadget above)

Congratulations Hanne Gaby!

Walking Calvin Klein for a model spells value for her career in many ways, two of which are:

1. Highly Efficient Go See--Gets the attention of influentials in minimal time. A runway show is like a super efficient "Go See", where the model goes to see not just one possible client--one at a time, but hundreds. And in the case of Calvin Klein, those people mark the creme de la creme of the fashion world.

2. High face recognition--the girls faces aren't disguised behind a mirage of makeup, hair accessories, or masks. This improves her chances of facial recall for future castings.

Jessica walked 2 looks in her exclusive for Calvin Klein, past exclusives have included Natalia Vodianova, Karlie Kloss, and Lara Stone.

On a lighter note, I tawt I taw Jessica wearing a Tweety Bird shirt :)

Kyleigh Kuhn (Next, NY) came from California to New York to model. She made the move to Next Models after a meeting with Next's founder, Faith Kates. I had the chance to shoot Kyleigh when she was new to New York, fresh off a Bruce Weber set. What follows is an afternoon in the life of a top model, highlighting things that characterize Kyleigh: not a runway, not an editorial, not a campaign. Just Kyleigh, pure and simple.

2:00 planning/scheduling her next trip to Afghanistan for her charity work

her living room wall

a close up of a piece on her wall, she decorated it all herself

those are real gun bullets she found on the street in Williamsburg

2:30 Kyleigh gets ready for a trip to the local organic market. She's an avid reader, showcasing her books alongside one of her favorite rings and pair of shoes

2:35 checking out her appearance before heading out

2:37 which included a side trip to her bedroom. I couldn't help but notice these vintage figurine cars and match boxes

2:38 and then notice this bona fide Fire Bat hanging on her wall

2:40 and all her jewelry choices

2:41 my favorites

2:45 playing around with her vintage cabinetry

2:50 Kyleigh has an interesting selection of hats to choose from. They indicate her personality as much as her choice in books and vintage card deck.

3:00 she's off to the local organic market with her boyfriend

3:15 Kyleigh comes out with a baguette, fresh cherry tomatoes, aged parmesan cheese, baby arugula, baby spinach, lemons, and basil

3:30 Kyleigh/caught sneaking a cherry tomato

4:15 dinner is served
Entree--olive oil, tomatos, basil, pasta
asparagus--fried covered on low heat for 15 minutes simmered in real butter
bread--both sides dipped in olive oil and pepper, oven baked for 8 minutes with goat cheese
salad--baby arugula, baby spinach, fresh squeezed lemon juice mixed with olive oil, pepper, and aged shaved parmesan cheese

5:15 last but not least, Kyleigh unwinds for some alone time on her fire escape, curling up with Hemingway and peace and quiet.

2009 Elite Model Look Finalist--same contest that helped launch the career of Rianne Ten Haken, Isabeli Fontana, and a personal favorite of mine, Charlotte Di Calypso.

Runway debut: walked exclusively at the Spring 2010 Paris Haute Couture for Givenchy

Closed 2 shows at the Fall/Winter 2010 London Fashion Week

walked Jil Sander, Emilio Pucci, and closed Les Copains at Milan.

walked Christian Dior and Vivienne Westwood in Paris so far.

Hopefully she gets the pages, pages, and more pages of high end editorials and campaigns to really solidify a foundation for long term career success. I know my eyes will be watching her progress carefully.

Arizona Muse exiting the SS17 BCBG Max Azria show. She was virtually unknown at this time.

Want to know which show at New York Fashion Week will give the first clue as to who the next big face will be this season? Try BCBG Max Azria. It's on Day 2 of New York Fashion Week and comes before Marc Jacobs (mid week) and Calvin Klein (last day).

At this same time last season, Arizona Muse who was virtually unknown was already on Casting Director Russell Marsh's radar. She opened and closed BCBG Max Azria. Russell Marsh later cast Arizona for the SS17 Prada show and with Miucci Prada's final go ahead, Arizona Opened and Closed Prada.

A similar pattern of virtually prophetic insight by Casting Director Russell Marsh can also be understood by looking back at the SS17 and SS17 BCBG Max Azria shows. In SS17, Russell cast a virtually unknown Frida Gustavsson and Jacquelyn Jablonski. And for SS17, Russell cast a rookie face unknown to the public at the time named Constance Jablonski.

Granted, there are other shows and many other factors that contribute to a models runway success, but BCBG Max Azria because of it's place on the New York Fashion Week schedule on Day 2 is the perfect place to begin looking for at least one big new face, possibly the next Constance, Jacquelyn, or Arizona.

Be sure to check back on the blog on September 8/9th for an update from backstage at the BCBG Max Azria show as I've just been confirmed by PR!

Elite London Model Alex Wurfel definitely has personal charisma as can be seen in her personal style. This charisma can surely translate into booking value either for Runway, Editorial, or Campaign for with just one look at her street style, one can instantly induce sizzle, personae, and charisma. Have a look at my tumblr blog for a close up of her sneakers.

Arizona Muse (Next, NY) exiting Balenciaga in Paris

Arizona Muse was arguably the new phenomena to watch this last show season. She captured the hearts of a wide set of Casting Directors from London's Russell Marsh to New York's James Scully. She's from New Mexico in case you are wondering and her show credits include opening and closing both Prada and Miu Miu, opening Chloé and closing YSL. I'm sure the Faith Kates team at Next NY will generate some amazing off season action for this new wonder.

Bo Don (Marilyn, NY) exiting Roberto Cavalli in Milan

Dutch wonder Bo Don first debuted on the runways at the Fall/Winter 2010 PARIS shows, but this Spring/Summer 2018 season marked her first full circuit of shows. Her appearence in Balenciaga marked two consecutive seasons in the show and her walks in the most directional shows like Cavalli, Givenchy, Marc Jacobs and Chanel point to what is surely going to be a colorful career to manage for the team over at Marilyn.

Britt Maren (Women, NY) exits Isabel Marant in Paris

Can you say "Hej Britt!" That's Swedish for you guys out there who want to show love by speaking in Britt's homeland language. I'm sure she'll get lots more love from the Women Model NY team lead by agency head Louie Chaban (the genius behind Agyness Deyn). With appearances in the most directional shows cast by a wide set of influential casting directors this season from opening Alexander Wang (Anita Bitton) to Balmain, Lanvin, Marc Jacobs (Michelle Lee) and Donna Karen (John Pfeiffer), I'm sure the editors at the worlds leading magazines will be taking note of her as well....perhaps Steven Meisel soon too?

Bambi Northwood-Blyth (Elite, NY) exits Balenciaga in Paris

Do you come from the land down under? Bambi does and somehow I think her booking value will be up and over the top in the off season. She's got a famous boyfriend (Ksubi co-founder Dan Single), plays in the social scene (maximizes her exposure), caught the eye of Casting Director Ashley Brokaw when she walked Balenciaga, channeled some Lagerfeld Love at Chanel, and apparently is a favorite of LOVE Editor-In-Chief Katie Grand enough to exclusively walk shows Katie styled in London.

Jessica Clarke (DNA, NY) exits Elie Saab

New Zealand hits the radar! Jessica debuted by walking a Calvin Klein exclusive. Scoring a Calvin Klein exclusive is like winning a New York Fashion Week MVP award. Past Calvin Klein runway exclusives have included Karlie Kloss (SS08), Natalia Vodianova (SS07), and Lara Stone (SS07). Jessica walked a tiny selection of other shows this season too, cherry picked from the best London, Milan, and Paris had to offer.