After the Donna Karen show at Fall/Winter 2010 New York Fashion Week shows
Before the Hervé Léger by Max Azria show at the Fall/Winter 2010 New York Fashion Week shows
Before the Alexander Wang show at the Fall/Winter 2010 New York Fashion Week shows
With friend Frida Gustavsson after the Ohne Titel show at the Fall/Winter 2010 New York Fashion Week shows.
At the Spring/Summer 2018 Milan Fashion Week shows.
After the Derek Lam Fall/Winter 2010 show at New York Fashion Week. I left more of the background intact in this shot, just because it looked interesting with all the snow, buildings, cabs, police cars, police scooter, black cab, yellow cab....for a New York feel.
At the Spring/Summer 2018 New York Fashion Week shows, talking candidly with Hye Park (Sept. 2009)
At the Fall/Winter 2009 Paris Fashion Week shows (March 2009). I remember taking this shot and not being able to back up any further without bumping into a bunch of people.
At the Spring/Summer 2018 New York Fashion Week shows (September 2008).
Photo by me, Craig Arend
Paul Rowland. A name that strikes reverence from anyone within the modeling industry. Paul is the founder of Women Model Management and Supreme Models, a visionaire extraordinaire, who can single handedly turn the course of the modeling industry at will.
His story is as interesting as are his accomplishments. Having managed some of the biggest names in modeling from Kate Moss to Iris Strubegger his success didn't come by accident, nor did it happen overnight.
Modeling found Paul. Over 20 years ago.
Originally, he came from Arkansas to New York City with the dream to be a painter. He had no close friends, no family, and no job when he arrived to New York. Working part time as a waiter, he was spotted by Click Models, the leading male modeling agency at the time.
In a common move, his agent left Click to start her own agency and Paul left with her. Then one fateful day, the birth of an empire began.
Paul's agent had to leave for Europe and she asked if he would be willing to man the phone. He said yes. Soon, he realized he was good at booking appointments. The businessman in Paul wanted to go where the money was at and when his booker came back from Europe, he asked if he and his partner John Gnerre could start up a womens division for the agency.
She said yes and in an unoccupied corner of the apartment, Paul made a desk from a piece of wood and set it on two sawhorses, set up a phone (there was no call waiting at the time) and got to work. It was 1988.
Two people, two phones, tons of passion and two decades later Paul's empire includes offices in New York, Paris, Milan and hundreds of people on his payroll.
Paul made it clear to me that he really doesn't care what other people think. He must've said this at least two or three times during the course of our brief conversation. While many will claim they don't care what others think, few will actually live it. From the art direction of his personal photography to the girls they choose to bring into their New York office, he will not compromise his artistic integrity for the sake of winning the approval of another.
It's a life lesson we all need to be reminded of from time to time. In an industry where outer beauty is common, people with a great passion like Paul, who have the courage to live life by their own convictions and who live with a sincerity to themself are a rare breed and worth working to follow.
I know I'm following, how about you?
p.s. one question I did ask Paul was, "With print media struggling like it is right now in terms of getting advertising and pages being cut across the board among some of the finest magazines, what impact do you see blogs and the internet having on the modeling industry in the future?" He answered, "….the internet will definitely have a huge impact on magazine sales…but there will always be a place for publishing."
Tavi Williams, Style Rookie, 13
the cover of the new POP magazine, under the editorial leadership of Dasha Zhukova
4 pages in the 2d edition of LOVE
a photo in style.com's Front-Row Faces
In the middle The Glamourai, on the sides The Owls Are Not What They Seem
Fashion is Poison, The Fashion Void that is DC, Fashion Pirates, Style Rookie
"Abbey Road meets Mercer Street" blogger style
A few months Jessica Schroeder from Weardrobe.com and I chatted over coffee about Jessica's dream to hold a blogger convention in New York before fashion week started. It didn't come as a suprise to find that Jessica transformed this vision into reality by bringing to New York 21 bloggers from around the country within the short time span of just a couple of months of work.
All I can say is that it was an amazing experience meeting all these girls and I'm half envious of the good time they had: a hotel room overlooking Gramercy Park, free meals in Soho where the food was shaped like tiny sculptures, DIY projects, new shoes, new bags...yet another way for serious fashion bloggers to make their presence heard in the world. Glamour.com, Seventeen Magazine, and a few other notable news outlets were there to report on the event that left this group of 21 girls turning more than a few heads on the streets of New York.
Arizona Muse exiting the SS17 BCBG Max Azria show. She was virtually unknown at this time.
Want to know which show at New York Fashion Week will give the first clue as to who the next big face will be this season? Try BCBG Max Azria. It's on Day 2 of New York Fashion Week and comes before Marc Jacobs (mid week) and Calvin Klein (last day).
At this same time last season, Arizona Muse who was virtually unknown was already on Casting Director Russell Marsh's radar. She opened and closed BCBG Max Azria. Russell Marsh later cast Arizona for the SS17 Prada show and with Miucci Prada's final go ahead, Arizona Opened and Closed Prada.
A similar pattern of virtually prophetic insight by Casting Director Russell Marsh can also be understood by looking back at the SS17 and SS17 BCBG Max Azria shows. In SS17, Russell cast a virtually unknown Frida Gustavsson and Jacquelyn Jablonski. And for SS17, Russell cast a rookie face unknown to the public at the time named Constance Jablonski.
Granted, there are other shows and many other factors that contribute to a models runway success, but BCBG Max Azria because of it's place on the New York Fashion Week schedule on Day 2 is the perfect place to begin looking for at least one big new face, possibly the next Constance, Jacquelyn, or Arizona.
Be sure to check back on the blog on September 8/9th for an update from backstage at the BCBG Max Azria show as I've just been confirmed by PR!
Who will be the next big face of the SS17 season? Above you will see a google table from the SS 11 New York Fashion Week shows which I designed in an effort to answer that question for the SS17 season. This was a personal project of mine I coordinated with the help of about 6 other people. The objective was to provide an easy drop down menu to track the shows the girls walked and thus recognize the best new faces to watch as well as predict which models were being favored by designers and/or casting directors.
Since history often has a tendency to repeat itself, I thought the information from the SS17 shows might help predict the coming SS17 shows. Not all shows are included though, just the more influential ones.
So for a change of pace on the blog, I thought I'd plug in some quick analysis of the past in order to help foresee the future. What are the most directional shows for a model to walk at New York Fashion Week (and fashion month in general) and what makes those shows valuable for a model? Let's start with Calvin Klein, the legacy of campaigns which helped launch Kate Moss into stardom.
Calvin Klein SS17 basic break down as a predictor of the SS17 show:
21 different models/34 different looks.
2 models walked 3 different looks each
9 models walked 2 different looks each10 models walked 1 different look
Easy Facial Recognition--the girls wear little make historically, so a place in the Calvin Klein lineup will improve the booking chances for the SS17 campaign/editorial season.
2 different shows--There are 2 showings of the Calvin Klein show, so all key editors, stylists, and photographers usually attend. This quantity of attendees improves the chances that the models will be recalled for future bookings.
good model to look ratio/only 21 models for 34 looks--unlike other shows which have 1 model per look. The limited number of models improves the chances their face will be recognized for future bookings.
conclusions: repetition, key attendees, and proven track record make Calvin Klein a key show for models to walk
32% chance a model will walk the runway more than once. A repeat walk is worth more than a single walk because the repetition gives the editors another chance to recall the face. It's like a 2d go see.
two different shows reduces chances that a possible influential attendee does not get to see a key face.
Somebody behind the scenes at Calvin Klein chose Daphne Groeneveld to walk the runway 3 times. Look how well she fared afterward in the editorial/campaign season. Basically, if you see a girl walk Calvin Klein 3 times this SS17 season, the odds are good she will be a big name to follow.
Back to regular scheduled street style shots soon!
If you ever have the opportunity to walk down Elizabeth Street between Houston and
Prince during the summer, look for an old man tanning on the side of the road--he's a dying breed of Old School New York. He lays by the road reclining on a lawn chair and sun tans in front of everybody while the cars go whisking by. This guy also has a habit of releasing the water from the fire hydrant across the street, creating himself into a somewhat of a tourist attraction.
As soon as I saw the water gushing forth from the fire hydrant, I knew I had to have a picture with that classic New York summertime symbol in the background. The window of opportunity was open, I staked my ground, and waited.
After waiting about an hour, this couple walked through my path. I like the imperfection in his rolled up sleeves...it's imperfect but he still looks interesting.
Long post I know, so I'll leave the rest to you. :)
I saw Swedish sensation Frida at New York Fashion Week wearing another version of a brown blazer but wasn't able to get a clean shot. At least here in London I was able to grab a shot that shows her Dr. Martens, long socks over tights, and another one of her brown blazers. Yes, I'd guess she likes brown blazers :)
She's having a massively successful season so far including opening New York's Richard Chai show, opening London's Luella and Pringle of Scotland's shows, and walking a host of other major shows including among others:
New York: Oscar de la Renta, Calvin Klein, Ralph Lauren, Marc Jacobs, Marc by Marc Jacobs, Rodarte, Isaac Mizrahi, and Carolina Herrera.
London: Christopher Kane, Topshop Unique, Richard Nicoll, and Jaeger London
Everyone knows Abbey Lee took time out from New York Fashion Week to be with her boyfriend Matthew Hutchinson so she could be with the band Our Mountain. What everyone might not know (never assume) is that she actually plays in the band. And of course, models for it.
Mark your calendars if you are in New York because Our Mountain is scheduled to play next Tuesday, May 3rd at 8 pm at Cake Shop in New York's Lower East Side. Get your tickets now before it sells out.
p.s. You can follow me on Twitter @WhatShaunaThinks where I've recently become active
Joanne Sprouse, Stephen Sprouse's mother, Debbie Harry, and Brad Sprouse
Debbie Harry contributed to the book and Mauricio Padilha co-authored the book with his brother Roger.
Teri Toye, contributor to the book Sprouse and Karlo Steel, owner of Atelier the location of the party
Tama Janowitz, novelist, wrote forward to the Padilha's book Sprouse
Marc Jacobs on right with Lorenzo Martone, his boyfriend
Fred Schneider, lead singer B52's on right and Johnny Dynell DJ on left
Fern Mallis, founder and creator of New York Fashion Week
Jeffrey Deitch, founder of Deitch Projects art gallery which is currently hosting an exhibtion: Stephen Sprouse: Rock on Mars
André Balazs, hotelier, owner of The Mercer
Patrick McDonald, writer and journalist
Team Vogue: Mimi Vu from Copy Editing and Brian Fee from Vogue Art
Edwige on Left was an inspiration to Madonna in the early 80's
Larissa, early 80's New York Party Scenester
famed Polaroid artist Jeremy Kost on left and Jun Nakayama
Bill Cunningham, New York Times street fashion photographer since the late 70's
On Tuesday night I had the pleasure of going to the Stephen Sprouse book launch party at Atelier at Hudson and Spring. Style.com did an interview with Mauricio and Roger Padilha who authored the book in homage to Stephen Sprouse, famous for his neon hued marks on Louis Vuitton. The party was amazing and above are a few shots from the evening.
Outside the Ohne Titel show at the F/W 2010 show for New York Fashion Week
At the Spring/Summer 2018 shows at Paris Fashion Week
At the Fall/Winter 2009 shows at New York Fashion Week
3 seasons of "history" with Maryna Linchuk--all easily organized for you only here at altamira: models off duty. Come back as I'll be the only street blogger singularly focused on providing Models Off Duty coverage from all 4 major fashion weeks from New York to London to Milan to Paris.
Before fashion month, I was asked by topman.com to submit a few photos for a New York vs. London street style contest they were going to have. New York wound up winning the contest, but now everyone can win, since topman.com is offering FREE SHIPPING to celebrate their New York flagship opening on April 2d.
Laura Kampan (New York Model Management). How often is it one crosses paths with the face of Balenciaga and the solo cover model to the Feb. issue of Italian Vogue? And couple that with the beautiful cobblestone streets of Soho? Well, with due regard that happened with Laura outside of Starbucks on Crosby Street. And if you want to see a delightfully airborne image (that’s Jump Shot) of Laura, have a visit to my Instagram account @WhatShaunaThinks. Click HERE to see her work as officially recognized by New York Models.
Arizona Muse (Next, NY) exiting Balenciaga in Paris
Arizona Muse was arguably the new phenomena to watch this last show season. She captured the hearts of a wide set of Casting Directors from London's Russell Marsh to New York's James Scully. She's from New Mexico in case you are wondering and her show credits include opening and closing both Prada and Miu Miu, opening Chloé and closing YSL. I'm sure the Faith Kates team at Next NY will generate some amazing off season action for this new wonder.
Bo Don (Marilyn, NY) exiting Roberto Cavalli in Milan
Dutch wonder Bo Don first debuted on the runways at the Fall/Winter 2010 PARIS shows, but this Spring/Summer 2018 season marked her first full circuit of shows. Her appearence in Balenciaga marked two consecutive seasons in the show and her walks in the most directional shows like Cavalli, Givenchy, Marc Jacobs and Chanel point to what is surely going to be a colorful career to manage for the team over at Marilyn.
Britt Maren (Women, NY) exits Isabel Marant in Paris
Can you say "Hej Britt!" That's Swedish for you guys out there who want to show love by speaking in Britt's homeland language. I'm sure she'll get lots more love from the Women Model NY team lead by agency head Louie Chaban (the genius behind Agyness Deyn). With appearances in the most directional shows cast by a wide set of influential casting directors this season from opening Alexander Wang (Anita Bitton) to Balmain, Lanvin, Marc Jacobs (Michelle Lee) and Donna Karen (John Pfeiffer), I'm sure the editors at the worlds leading magazines will be taking note of her as well....perhaps Steven Meisel soon too?
Bambi Northwood-Blyth (Elite, NY) exits Balenciaga in Paris
Do you come from the land down under? Bambi does and somehow I think her booking value will be up and over the top in the off season. She's got a famous boyfriend (Ksubi co-founder Dan Single), plays in the social scene (maximizes her exposure), caught the eye of Casting Director Ashley Brokaw when she walked Balenciaga, channeled some Lagerfeld Love at Chanel, and apparently is a favorite of LOVE Editor-In-Chief Katie Grand enough to exclusively walk shows Katie styled in London.
Jessica Clarke (DNA, NY) exits Elie Saab
New Zealand hits the radar! Jessica debuted by walking a Calvin Klein exclusive. Scoring a Calvin Klein exclusive is like winning a New York Fashion Week MVP award. Past Calvin Klein runway exclusives have included Karlie Kloss (SS08), Natalia Vodianova (SS07), and Lara Stone (SS07). Jessica walked a tiny selection of other shows this season too, cherry picked from the best London, Milan, and Paris had to offer.
boots--Carpe Diem
pants--H & M
hem style--self created
tunic--Dries Van Noten
linen jacket--Y's
Sato bought his pants at H & M and cut around a 1 inch horizontal slice with some scissors right at where he wanted a new hem style. He then ripped the pant leg into two pieces, creating his own unique hem style. He reminded me that Atelier will soon be moving to a new location, right next door to the new Rick Owens New York store.
1. Constance Jablonski (ELITE Milan) 72 shows total, opened 8, closed 3
2. Liu Wen (MARILYN Paris) 70 shows total, opened 2
3. Kasia Struss (WOMEN Paris) 61 shows total, opened 3, closed 1
new Balenciaga campaign
4. Frida Gustavsson (IMG Paris) 60 shows total, opened 4, closed 2
New Face Sensation of the Season
5. Eniko Mihalik (WHY NOT Milan) 58 shows total, opened 4, closed 2
6. Tao Okamoto (SUPREME New York) 58 shows total, opened 2, closed 4
7. Imogen Morris-Clarke (NEXT Milan) 58 shows total, opened 5, closed 2
8. Jacquelyn Jablonski (ELITE Paris) 58 shows total, closed 1
9. Charlotte di Calypso (ELITE Milan) 57 shows, opened 2
10. Karlie Kloss (NEXT Paris) 56 shows total, opened 8, closed 4
Okay, it's no secret that at The Fashion Spot, members compile lists of their favorite girls as a season progresses to see how many shows they opened, closed, and walked in total. Models.com took it upon themselves to organize the top 10 most active girls from information assembled at the fashion spot forums. The list is compiled from participation in shows from New York, London, Milan, and Paris Fashion Weeks.
Here are the top 10 most active girls with there being a 4 way tie for 5th place. Information attributable to models.com and The Fashion Spot forums.
First off, I wanted to say THANK YOU to each and everyone of you who took the time to extend your condolences to me. Words really can't do justice to the sincerity with which I say this thanks from the bottom of my heart. May good karma come back to you all in the form of Rick Owens and Marc Jacobs goods!
Now on to some new street style! I am so excited to get my camera out again. We have New York Fashion Week coming up, London Fashion Week...so much to look forward to in the near future that I'm about ready to camp out at Bryant Park starting this weekend. <---kidding On a more serious note, in the first picture you have Andre. Be sure to click the picture to enlarge the photo so you can better see the details: the colored stitching on his lapels, his rings, his cufflinks. In a word, awesome.
In the second picture you see some subtler style as evinced by Patrick. His perfectly scuplted hair inspired by the 50's beatnick and greaser is the primary focus, his epaulettes on his black button down which color coordinate well with his skin a close second.
Again, Thank You to everyone for your words of condolence and patience with waiting for new material to be posted.
Onwards and upwards, fashion week awaits us all!
Polish newcomer Maddie caught a wide variety of Casting Director's eyes this SS17 season. From London's Russell Marsh (opened Dries van Noten at Paris and walked Miu Miu), to New York's Jennifer Starr (she walked Ralph Lauren), to New York's Michelle Lee for KCD (she walked Marc Jacobs).
The icing on the cake was wrapping up the Paris shows with Lanvin, YSL, and Dior.
Massive Call Sheet potential for the coming editorial and campaign season.
Danish friends Amanda Petersen (L) and Christel Winther (R)
Initially Amanda's amazing Peach colored jumpsuit grabbed my eye. It's from Danish designer Vilsbøl de Arce .
Christel Winther on the right is new to the New York division of FORD models. With German Vogue and a Diesel campaign already under her belt, it'll be exciting to see how her career develops here in New York.
Jac leaves the Roberto Cavalli show in Milan
Jac is already a huge force both on and off the runway. While only participating in runway shows in New York and Milan, she walked in nearly every key show in both cities (33 total shows): from Marc Jacobs and Oscar de la Renta in New York to Prada and Gucci in Milan -- among the many.
She also managed to really solidify her presence as a strong show Opener by opening a total of 7 shows in both cities including such heavy weights as Calvin Klein, Derek Lam, Bottega Veneta, Marni, Emilio Pucci, Etro, and star Milan new designer Marco de Vincenzo. Closing Alexander Wang and Gianfranco Ferre is nothing to sneeze at either.
Off the runway, October has been an amazing building block towards her future success with editorials in Italian Vogue shot by Steven Meisel (October 2009), W magazine shot by Paolo Roversi (October 2009) and an editorial in Numero (October 2009).
Provided that no other obligations interfere, I predict you will be seeing even more of her during the next fashion month (FALL 2010) as she turns 16 in January and will be able to fully participate, without technical age restrictions, in the Paris Fashion Week shows.
Look out Paris.
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