With the opening of the Metropolitan Museum's exhibition The Model As Muse: Embodying Fashion starting today, the May issue of Vogue U.S.'s pages on Models Street Style, an April model-centric Harper's Bazaar, and a new fashion month Models Off Duty section at Teen Vogue.com, I felt it was appropriate to celebrate the possible re-emergence of the model as a fashion icon by sharing an entire week's worth of models street style.
What makes these photos special is that they will all be from the streets of New York, sans any fashion month flashbacks. Imagine jumping in front of a model on the street, pausing very briefly while you study the face behind the sunglasses and opening with, "Hey, you're Catherine McNeil!"
boots -- Bess dress -- Hervé Léger Bandage Dress in bag -- footwear purchased at Opening Ceremony
New Face to Watch: Erjona Ala (FORD, NY) exits Costume National
A lot of modeling agencies are stuck in the Print Era Paradigm--pre-internet thinking in which the Old School hierarchy of exclusivity dominated the management of models visibility. While this system may still warrant merit, the general lack of adaptability with regards to original content via the internet is appalling. Some agencies are kidding themselves if they think republishing editorial, campaign, or runway shots online will generate a sustainable presence. The editors of today may visit an agency site to get a models stats, but the editors of tomorrow will have grown up learning models names through tumblr, blogspot, and other social media. Modeling Agencies that fail to adapt now to the Internet Era Paradigm and it's vast plethora of opportunity will be still be riding horse and buggy while their competitors speed it out in Maybachs. The internet revolution is here and it's happening in Real Time.
I can't think of single better agency to team up with for the fashion season besides FORD models. Have a click on the previous link to see what I've been up to. They get it. In the same way Henry Ford said he'd belt the earth with his cars before the highways and roads for the cars even existed, FORD models is doing the same online. They dare to venture where other agencies fail to tread. They understand the Bookings Editor's of tomorrow are the teens of today on tumblr and iphones. Agencies which reproduce Print Era thinking online as their sole source of internet presence may as well have a horse tug a Model-T chained to it's back when they could just make their own car to begin with.
Even the fashion industry which for so long tried to protect it's exclusivity has gone on the record about the power of the internet many times. In her Interview Magazine article with Joseph Altuzarra, Anna Dello Russo remarked:
ANNA DELLO RUSSO: You’ve only done four collections and already you’re more popular than Tom Ford. How do you think that happened?
JOSEPH ALTUZARRA: [laughs] I think it’s because of the Internet. You can build a brand very fast now, especially with bloggers and how fast images can get out—the message just goes out faster and stronger than ever before.
And in similar fashion at the IFB Conference in 2011, Jack McCollough of Proenza Schouler remarked, "Blogs posting things about us, going viral, spreading throughout the interent...it has an extraordinary impact on the business"
With the speed at which images travel online now, a models off duty image is half the battle. Her sense of style and fashion can rapidly propel her press image online. Some within the modeling industry "get it" like Casting Director Jennifer Starr who was quoted by New York Magazine recently:
"Model street style has blown up significantly in the past few years, what do you make of it?
There is no doubt in my mind that if you have authentic personal style, it will help you as a model. Look at models like Erin Wasson, Abbey Lee, Freja Beha, and Daria Webowy, all of whom have great style. Personal style indicates to me that you have a great sense of self. The key is having authentic style. You must feel comfortable with the image you're projecting; otherwise, it's obvious you're trying too hard."
And in an interview I conducted with Sarah Doukas, the founder of STORM models who discovered Kate Moss in JFK airport:
"Craig: Can a models sense of style positively impact her career?
Sarah: I definitely think it can positively impact her career. It's got to be simple but the point about that question is, that if they have absolutely no style and they go out just not looking great, they're wearing very unflattering clothes and things like that, then it's definitely going to have a negative impact."
Every home has a computer, but not every home has a copy of American Vogue or Paris Vogue. A new generation is growing up with the internet literally at their fingertips. And I can't think of an agency that I'd be more proud to work with at this moment in time than FORD models. If you haven't checked out the site, go now.
As I write this, my hands are actually a bit sweaty. Maybe it's the old fight or flight response mechanism inside of me, knowing that some of the country's top editors will be watching my work. Frankly, I think it's the excitement of knowing that I'll be the first photographer to be hired by Teen Vogue.com for New York, London, and Paris Fashion Week to capture models street style and "it" girls street style--close up shots might be included too. An endeavor to be taken seriously, no doubt. So for future reference, I'm going to ask that you click on the Teen Vogue.com banner links inside my posts and check out their new street style section for fashion week. The photos will be exclusive for use by Teen Vogue, so you won't be able to see them here. So go check out what's probably the first street style shot EVER, of FORD Supermodel of the World 2009 Winner, 14 year old modeling sensation Tayane Leao at Teen Vogue.com!.
Dree Hemingway, December 14, 2008...before she became a media celebrity.
Joan Smalls, back on June 3, 2009 before she became a Vogue It Girl.
Frida Gustavsson, at London Fashion Week back on September 23, 2009, in her first runway season, before she became a street style phenomena.
Tati Cotliarbefore she even finished her first runway season back at New York Fashion Week on September 25, 2009
Mirte Maas just after finishing her first ever runway season on November 19, 2009. Before she went on to multiple shoots with Steven Meisel, the Balenciaga campaign, and a Vogue China Cover.
Ruby Aldridge, on March 3, 2010. Before she went on to be shot by Juergen Teller for the Marc by Marc Jacobs campaign as well as by nearly every other street style blogger around.
Lindsey Wixson on February 10, 2010, just after debuting with a Miu Miu exclusive.
Ming Xi, during her first ever Paris Ready To Wear show on March 6, 2010, in a Paris Metro Stop. This is before her Givenchy campaign went mainstream.
Samantha Gradoville, on July 14, 2010. She hasn't even finished a complete runway season yet. Last season she Opened and Closed PRADA, one of the most influential shows any model can walk in, let alone a new model who Opens and Closes the show. Here she is at the recent Paris Couture shows.
The Independent, a British based newspaper recently mentioned this about altamira, "Dubbed 'Models off duty,' this blog captures the streetstyle of all kinds of fashion professionals including the industry's best-known models, often predicting soon-to-be-famous new faces."
Not only has this site been recognized as the single most powerful concentrated resource for models street style on the internet, but over time, that reach and influence will just grow more and more.
So stay tuned for updates during the coming fashion season.
With fashion month soon to be upon us, models will be attending casting calls in between fittings, shows, and visits to their agencies. If you haven't seen what a casting call for a runway show is like, it can be quite anxiety driven. Girls are literally lined up by the 10's and 20's outside in hallways. Some Casting Directors have pre-casting castings, in which they will see hundreds of girls in just 2 days time, so they can edit down their choices for runway shows accordingly. Just try mentioning the name Russell Marsh to a model and watch her reaction. Because of the timing, I thought it was appropriate to republish an interview I did with Sarah Doukas, the founder of Storm Model Management and the one who discovered Kate Moss at JFK airport. In it, we talked about the impact of style on a models career.
We sat down for a chat at her agency in South Kensington and what follows is a brief glimpse of the modeling world, distilled ultimately into two major categories: how a models personal style can help create more opportunities for them and how press (think my blog here) can help create more opportunities for models as well.
I must add that everyone at Storm Models from their Press Officer Paula Karaiskos to their entire New Faces Division was a pleasure to work with. Many thanks to everyone at Storm who helped me along the way and especially to Sarah for breaking from her hectic schedule for the interview.
THE IMPACT OF PERSONAL STYLE ON THE SUCCESS OF A MODELS CAREER
Craig: Can a models sense of style positively impact her career?
Sarah: I definitely think it can positively impact her career. It's got to be simple but the point about that question is, that if they have absolutely no style and they go out just not looking great, they're wearing very unflattering clothes and things like that, then it's definitely going to have a negative impact.
Craig: really?
Sarah: Oh god yes, there's no question. I'm obsessed with finding British girls. It's my big thing....and it's hard to get them to the point of going out to do shows...I know that once they hit that international circuit, and they're sitting in a Paris agency and seeing those Parisian clients, if they don't look the part...you know they're wearing some kind of scraggy old t-shirt...(sighs)..they don't have to go and spend a great deal of money, but style is really important, very simple. So I think it is important.
Craig: so the lack of style can definitely negatively impact
Sarah: Impact. There's no doubt that lack of style can negatively impact. I'm not talking about wearing Balenciaga, but very simple High Street stuff. That elongates your legs and is just flattering.
STORM AGENCY TAKES ACTIONS TO IMPROVE A MODELS STYLE
Craig: do you guys tell models how to dress here?
Sarah: yeah
Craig: for castings?
Sarah: yes
Craig: So if you don't mind me asking in what? just jeans...stuff that shows their body?....is that what they're supposed to wear?
Sarah: I think if they walked around in a great big smock it would be a bit a problem for a client and I'm not suggesting that they look provocatively, you know wearing sexy stuff but certainly stuff that shows the length of their body and that they're slim. You can get somebody with the most fantastic figure and they come in here and may be in a dress like this (motions wide with hands) the client would say, "well I wonder what's going on there....have you put on weight?"...They can look at their book but they don't really know...so it's advisable to dress in something that can really see, you know show your shape. That's what I think.
Craig: so the key for style...there's not many options if you're having to wear skinny jeans and t-shirts??
Sarah: well you can wear leggings, they are back in fashion. You can still layer up. You can wear a really nice cardi with a longer tightish dress with leggings. There are lots of options. You can wear a short skirt with leggings. With boots. Again with layers. But just not, you can't walk around in sort of voluminous clothes as the clients are going to say "Hey whats going on under there? Maybe she's pregnant?"
Craig: So you do intervene then? On occasion, when it comes to a girl's style?
Sarah: Well I sit at the booking table. I do all the time. I like everybody to be autonomous in their job here and do their thing. I don't want to look over peoples shoulder. I hate that kind of thing because I work at the booking table with everybody and I don't have an office. You know, I'm just one of them, I'm not the boss or any such thing.
But yeah I do because I know its going to have a negative impact if they go out looking like that. And they appreciate it. You can say it in a really nice way. You don't have to say, "listen you have terrible style. We need to completely change you." You just have to say, "now listen, when you go out I want you to look great."
GREAT PERSONAL STYLE CREATES MORE SALES VALUE FOR BOOKING AGENTS
Sarah: You know they go into a French agency or a New York agency, the bookers are looking at them for the first time and at the end of the day we have to be realistic about this job: they are selling a product, those booking agents. So they have to believe in it when they see it. So they have to see somebody looking -- great. The book can look fantastic. But you know what? You need to believe to sell something, of course you do. You can't make any bones about it. It's a human business. And I really like these girls or I wouldn't do it. But we are selling something. So you must look good.
THE IMPACT OF PRESS ON A MODELS BOOKING VALUE
Craig: regarding press as opposed to runway shows, advertising campaigns and editorials, press like a girl gets her photo taken and she's in the New York Times...or interviews...like this is a form of press (I pointed to 1 of 4 of my Teen Vogue solo pages)
Sarah: does it have their names?
Craig: it does
Sarah: Exactly, that's very important. Years ago nobody knew who models were. Apart from those famous models, they were never given credit in a magazine or anything so there were was no credits given. So that was one thing that people were quite anonymous. And i think press is huge and I think it's really important.
We started with PR in 89 or 90. Because I just thought it was hugely important and Richard Branson was my partner for many years and he was like, "Sarah" we know he likes the press...he was like "it's really important"
I think it's important. Kate Moss is the first one that we did it with. And I build press books and I've done it on all my models. Whether it be Sophie Dahl, Lily Cole, Devon Aoki, Jourdan Dunn, Behati Prinsloo, Liberty Ross....
Craig: one thing that really gets me about press is, yeah it's cool because the model gets her name circulated in the public, but how does that impact the booking value of a model?
Sarah: Huge, because you know you've got a model "Ann Smith" who doesn't get any press, who is a great looking girl, and works alot. And you've got somebody else, say "Paula Reed" who gets press, is out in the public domain, if you went and asked somebody in the street do you know who this is? They'd say yes. Well that's what market research is. So then you get a big company going, "I want a name." So you put this beautiful girl up who hasn't got press and you put this one up who has got press. Who are they going to choose? Does the general public know this person? So they sell masses and her value is much higher than this one's is. Way higher.
ALL THINGS EQUAL, THE MODEL WITH MORE PRESS GETS MORE OPPORTUNITIES
Craig: so everything else being equal, they both walked the same amount of runway shows, they both did the same advertising campaigns and editorials, but one just got the press, that one is going to be the more valuable one then?
Sarah: yes, much more. Look at our magazines. Look at the campaigns. They're all celebrities. Actresses. Somebody well known, they take up what, 80-90% of fabulous campaigns. You know that's because that's the power of somebody whose got a name....
But if you're in the business. If you see your chance that somebody can go that route and if they want to, you've got to take it because it's going to be a huge benefit financially to them and it's going to be a benefit to the agency...it feeds on itself. As soon as you do some press, it's unbelievable. You get so many opportunities open. People are calling. It opens doors.
Craig: so being that press is so important, do you train models in self-publicizing?
Sarah: There are definite pitfalls. Of course you say to them "look, don't open up too much about your private life, or things you don't want to say." You have to learn how to talk to press, but you need to keep it professional but you still need to keep it real. They need to be interested in you as a person. At the end of the day you've got to understand that you can just chat away and end up saying something that you wish you hadn't said. So you do have to be guarded. Open but guarded...Paula would sit in if it was somebody young. Like when Jourdan had done press. She would sit in....
PRESS MUST INCLUDE A MODELS NAME TO BE IMPACTFUL
Craig: Regarding press, it's valuable as long as it includes the models name?
Sarah: Oh it has to. It has to be all about her.
Craig: So just a photo without the name isn't necessarily valuable?
Sarah: nobody would know who you were....if they don't have the name, then the general public just don't know. It's interesting now when people ring and they say they, "Ah, I want somebody well known." Well it's not easy. Not that many models are well known anymore. They're just not -- for the general public. For our world, we know who they are, but the man walking down the street doesn't. They have to constantly see the image of a person and interviews on her, with her name, with her name, constantly for it to get into their head and they suddenly say, "Oh I know who this person is"
WORDS OF WISDOM TO THE COMMERCIAL MODEL
Craig:....commercial versus high fashion...who makes more money in the short-term?
Sarah: the commercial girls make a fortune
Craig: they make tons
Sarah: they make tons!
Craig: why is it then that every girl aspires to the high fashion?
Sarah: because we all want to be driving a Ferrari don't we?
Craig: but you don't necessarily make as much money do you if you go the high fashion route?
Sarah: no, You know you always get these girls that make a load of money. You know they're fantastic looking girls and they're doing brilliantly. And they're like, "you know what, I'm going to cut all my hair off. I'm going to go seriously edgy. I want you to get me into...." And I'm like "You're taking a massive risk. You're going to ruin your market in the short-term" And it happens. It does happen. I can mention lots of girls who it has happened....I always think, "You should be glad for what you've got. I understand wanting to aspire to better and greater things. But, you could in the short term lose your whole market "
Craig: so a girl can start off as a commercial model and then go the high fashion route?
Sarah: it happens
Craig: does it really?
Sarah: yeah
THE MONETARY VALUE OF OPENING AND CLOSING A SHOW
Craig: when a model opens and closes a show, do they get paid extra?
Sarah: well I don't know that they get paid extra per se, but if a model is good enough to open and close, she may well be on a much higher rate than somebody else. I mean it's negotiated. It's all negotiated.
NEW MAGAZINES NEED GREAT PHOTOGRAPHERS WITH A GREAT TEAM TO BOOK TOP MODELS
Craig: I've got another question for you. A new magazine, a start up magazine in London calls you up and they say "we want your top girl" What are the credentials that someone has to bring for a new magazine?
Sarah: They'd have to bring an amazing photographer, stylist, hair and make up...all the jazz.
Craig: What if they don't have a famous photographer?
Sarah: You would have to be very careful with the top talent. Because you don't really know what it's going to look like. You'd ask for a dummy copy. And this that and the other but you wouldn't give top talent.
From Spain, walked in a Victoria's Secret show in 2008, walked numerous shows in New York and Milan this past Feb. I hope to see more of Clara in her menswear inspired blazers in the future.
altamira, the ultimate resource for models street style
on left, Stas Svetlichnyy with DNA New York wearing a coat by Robert Geller. or right, Tyler Riggs with Red Model Management New York wearing a jacket by Neil Barrett
altamira, the ultimate resource for models street style.
L-Dorothea Barth Jorgensen (Women NY) and R-Anna de Rijk (DNA)
Dorothea was recently shot by Steven Meisel (again) for the Alberta Ferretti S/S 2010 campaign. She was also shot by Craig McDean for a Feb. 2010 W Magazine editorial.
Anna just shot a 10 Magazine editorial for the F/W 2009 issue and completed the Vera Wang S/S 2010 campaign.
L-Vanessa Hegelmaier and R-Amanda Norgaard
Vanessa Hegelmaier just shot an editorial for Vogue Greece and was shot by Nathaniel Goldberg for the DKNY S/S 2010 campaign
Amanda Norgaard walked Prada and Miu Miu last season and since has done editorial work with Interview Magazine and a 15 page editorial with the Feb. 2010 U.S. edition of Harpers Bazaar.
Amanda has a brilliant and fun personality.... Vanessa and I appeared together on German National TV last season on a special RTL segment on me.
Amanda's spunk and style popping for the camera
L-Alla Kostromichova (Women Direct) and R-Irina Vodolazova (Women Direct)
Alla was just appeared in the Jan. issue of Italian Vogue, and finished editorials with British Vogue, ID and 10 magazine.
Irina recently completed an editorial with L'Officiel Russia
Lindsey Wixson (Marilyn NY)
Shot by Mert Alus and Marcus Piggott for the Miu Miu S/S 2010 campaign, shot by Craig McDean for W, shot by Daniel Jackson for ID, featured in POP, and featured in LOVE magazine...I can't wait to see how she fares this runway season.
Lindsey Wixson Street Style: FW10 Paris
Lindsey Wixson Street Style: at the SS17 Milan shows
Lindsey Wixson Street Style: exclusive pre-fashion month photo
Who will be the next big face of the SS17 season? Above you will see a google table from the SS 11 New York Fashion Week shows which I designed in an effort to answer that question for the SS17 season. This was a personal project of mine I coordinated with the help of about 6 other people. The objective was to provide an easy drop down menu to track the shows the girls walked and thus recognize the best new faces to watch as well as predict which models were being favored by designers and/or casting directors.
Since history often has a tendency to repeat itself, I thought the information from the SS17 shows might help predict the coming SS17 shows. Not all shows are included though, just the more influential ones.
So for a change of pace on the blog, I thought I'd plug in some quick analysis of the past in order to help foresee the future. What are the most directional shows for a model to walk at New York Fashion Week (and fashion month in general) and what makes those shows valuable for a model? Let's start with Calvin Klein, the legacy of campaigns which helped launch Kate Moss into stardom.
Calvin Klein SS17 basic break down as a predictor of the SS17 show:
21 different models/34 different looks. 2 models walked 3 different looks each 9 models walked 2 different looks each10 models walked 1 different look
Easy Facial Recognition--the girls wear little make historically, so a place in the Calvin Klein lineup will improve the booking chances for the SS17 campaign/editorial season.
2 different shows--There are 2 showings of the Calvin Klein show, so all key editors, stylists, and photographers usually attend. This quantity of attendees improves the chances that the models will be recalled for future bookings.
good model to look ratio/only 21 models for 34 looks--unlike other shows which have 1 model per look. The limited number of models improves the chances their face will be recognized for future bookings.
conclusions: repetition, key attendees, and proven track record make Calvin Klein a key show for models to walk
32% chance a model will walk the runway more than once. A repeat walk is worth more than a single walk because the repetition gives the editors another chance to recall the face. It's like a 2d go see.
two different shows reduces chances that a possible influential attendee does not get to see a key face.
Somebody behind the scenes at Calvin Klein chose Daphne Groeneveld to walk the runway 3 times. Look how well she fared afterward in the editorial/campaign season. Basically, if you see a girl walk Calvin Klein 3 times this SS17 season, the odds are good she will be a big name to follow.
Back to regular scheduled street style shots soon!
Two years ago designer Brian Reyes hired Casting Director Julia Samersova Adler to comb through hundreds of models and edit down the choices for his runway show. Julia chose what was then the unknown face of Jacquelyn Jablonski. That's before Jacquelyn stunned the modeling world with her stellar Spring/Summer 2018 runway performances.
Clients have invested years now calling upon that same eye that picked Jacquelyn two years ago to stack one successful cast upon another. The list is expanding and reads like a Who's Who of clients from the modeling world: the DKNY show, the Sass and Bide show, VOGUE Italia, VOGUE Germany, J. Crew, Neiman Marcus, Patrick Demarchelier, and Mario Sorrenti. Put it to you this way, the demand for her services and the access to the best models from the best agencies she brings to the table on a global level is NOT shrinking.
The best part about Julia is that she treats each one of her models with a Tender Loving Care (TLC) that hopefully you can relate to in the above photo with her husband Andrew and new baby daughter, Violet. She runs the internet's first street style site soley dedicated to kids street style: Planet Awesome Kid a goal of which is to create resources for kids charities.
Go check out Planet Awesome Kid for your daily dose of cuteness (updated like 4 times a day).
Adorable! This is Pelin Kirca from Turkey. Instead of wearing the newly popular knit hat or fedora, she is wearing a unique cloche inspired hat. I saw another hat a few days ago which was similarly interesting.
Models on Houston Street. I actually had to stand on Houston Street to get this picture.
Street Style myth debunker: you can take a photo of someone while they are talking on their cell phone and still be courteous and pleasant in your approach.
When I started this blog back in 2007, there was no such thing as the fashion world using twitter, using instagram, using Tumblr.
That's all changed for me and it's all changed for the modeling world too. Previous to the internet, models received their booking value through Runway, Campaigns, and Editorials. Now, models get their booking value through Social Media, which combines their street style presence via Social Media with their own social media channels like twitter, instagram, and Tumblr.
Even Supermodel Karolina Kurkova recently exhorted models, "It is no longer enough to just look beautiful and be in great shape. You need to be interesting." The fact of the matter is, as bloggers can now create their own booking value via developing online presence, so models can create their own booking value too. This translates into more money.
Trey Laird, Creative Director for Laird & Partners, the advertising agency which represents Juicy Couture (cha-ching, Steven Meisel shoots for them for a reason) confirms Kurkova's exhortation in financial terms “It’s not just enough to cast such-and-such a girl that opened Prada or Vuitton or whatever,” . “It’s a huge help if a girl already has a platform and followers, and Kate Upton is a great example of that.”
Last night was Fashion Night Out all over the world and the streets of New York City were shoulder-to-shoulder with people shopping, partying, and drinking pretty much everything in site. It's a wonder the city still functioned everyone was having so much fun.
Crossing paths with Yulia who is always a pleasure to see, was one highlight.
loafers -- Miu Miu pants -- BCBG top -- Gucci
One thing we did talk about briefly was Casting Director Jennifer Starr's statement in her recent interview with New York Magazine, ""Model street style has blown up significantly in the past few years, what do you make of it?There is no doubt in my mind that if you have authentic personal style, it will help you as a model. Look at models like Erin Wasson, Abbey Lee, Freja Beha, and Daria Webowy, all of whom have great style. Personal style indicates to me that you have a great sense of self. The key is having authentic style. You must feel comfortable with the image you're projecting; otherwise, it's obvious you're trying too hard."
These are in no particular order. Also, there are a few images of other models that are going to press soon and in deference to my clients, I didn't post those images.
And one more note, I'll be covering the Couture shows at Paris in January too...and from there come back to catch the street style at castings in NY and prepare for the new fashion month that is already so close to us.
I will be covering the February New York Fashion Week as well, so if you like these photos of models, you might want to bookmark my site for new model picture updates.
